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A New Log of the Columbia 

BY 

JOHN BOIT 

on the 

Discovery of the Columbia River 

and Grays Harbor 



Edited by . 

Edmond S. Meany 



Reprinted from The Washington Historical Quarierly, Vol. XII., No. 1 



University of Washington Press 

Seattle, Washington 

1921 



R£CtlV£D j 

MAY 2 4 1924 '■■ 

I 
( 

\ docume:nj_ 



^7? 



A New Log of the Columbia 

By JOHN BOIT 



Introduction. 



The discovery of the Columbia River in 1792 was the first and 
greatest among the important events, which resulted in the estab- 
lishment of American possessions on the Northwestern Coast. Any 
document relating to that event would be prized and here we have 
one of peculiar importance. 

Captain Gray's original and official log of the Columbia is 
lost. That statement has been made often but the definite and 
authoritative statement of the loss has rarely been given. In the 
United States Public Documents, Serial Number 318, there may be 
found Senate Document 470, of the twenty-fifth Congress, second 
session. Pages 14-23 of that document contain an affidavit by 
Charles Bulfinch, dated at Boston April 21, 1838. He was the last 
survivor of the group of men who owned the Columbia and sent 
her on the memorable voyages to the Northwest Coast of America. 
In his seventy-fifth year he prepared this affidavit, "which state- 
ment," he said, "may in future be important in determining the 
right of the United States to the honor of discovering the river, 
and, consequently, to the right of jurisdiction over the country 
adjacent." 

Mr. Bulfinch testifies that Joseph Barrell projected the enter- 
prise and supplied two-sevenths of the necessar}^ means. He had 
five associates, each supplying one-seventh, as follows : Samuel 
Brown, John Derby, Crowell Hatch, John M. Pintard and Charles 
Bulfinch. In the autumn of 1787 they sent out the ship Cohmibia, 
Captain John Kendrick, and the sloop Lady Washington, Captain 
Robert Gray. The ship was two hundred and twenty tons' burden 
and her full name was Columbia Rediviva. The sloop was ninety 
tons' burden and usually went by the shorter name of Washington. 
Captain Kendrick had command of the expedition. In June, 1789, 

(1) 



2 ■ John Boit 

Captain Gray was transferred to the Columbia, and proceeded 
from the Northwest Coast to Boston by way of China and the Cape 
of Good Hope. He was thus the first to sail around the globe under 
the Stars and vStripes. The results of the voyage were so disap- 
pointing that Mr. Derby and Mr. Pintard sold their interests to 
Mr. Barrel! and Mr. Brown. These with the other owners — Hatch 
and Bulfinch — sent the Columbia on her second voyage in com- 
mand of Captain Gray. 

This second voyage is the one, during which the great dis- 
coveries were made. Any new light on those occurrences would 
be welcome, but historians in the Northwest were certainly not 
expecting a new journal giving a day-by-day record of the entire 
voyage. Just such a rich find has come to light in this John Boit 
journal. His personality and journal will be mentioned shortly. In 
the meantime let us turn to the loss of the official log. 

Mr. Bulfinch in his affidavit explained that Captain Kendrick 
had remained in Pacific waters with the sloop Lady Washington. 
It was expected that he would have collected furs which would be 
turned over to Captain Gray during his second voyage to the North- 
west. In this the owners were somewhat disappointed. Mr. Bul- 
finch says : "It was determined by the owners to prosecute the 
voyage no further with the ship, but to leave Captain Kendrick in 
the sloop Washington, to attend to their interests on the coast. In- 
telligence was obtained from Captain Gray of the discovery of 
Columbia River; but nothing was done in consequence of it until 
1816, when Samuel Barrell, Esq., the principal living owner, after 
the death of Joseph Barrell, Esq., requested the deponent to make 
inquiry after Captain Gray's papers, and to take correct copies 
of all proceedings relative thereto ; and this v/as done in conse- 
quence of President Madison's application to him for information." 
Captain Gray had died in Charleston, South Carolina, in 1806, and 
Mr. Bulfinch, after some search, obtained from Mr. Silas Atkins, 
brother of Captain Gray's widow, the original log of the Columbia 
He made careful extracts, including the complete entries as to the 
discoveries of Grays Harbor and Columbia River. 

That was a most fortunate circumstance. The extracts were 
used in 1816. They were incorporated again in the affidavit of 
1838. They have been depended upon by historians and committees 
of Congress since that date. In 1837, William A. Slacum desired 
more than the available extracts. He employed Thomas Bulfinch. 
son of Charles Bulfinch, to make a diligent search for the original 
log-book. In this search it was found that Mrs. Grav and her 



LIBRAWY OP CONGRESS 
RECEIVEC 




1924 

DC^e'l/MENTS D*V>S »QN| [ 



New Log of the Columbia 3 

brother, Captain Silas Atkins, had both died some years before, 
and that Mrs. Gray's papers had gone to her niece, Mrs. Nash. 
Charles Bulfinch, in his affidavit, declares: "Thomas Bulfinch 
then applied to Mrs. Nash, who very readily handed to him one 
log-book of the ship Columbia, containing minutes of her voyage 
from Boston to the straights of John de Fuca, in 1791, but stated 
that another log book, which contained the proceedings at Columbia 
river in 1792, had been used as waste paper, and was entirely de- 
stroyed." 

It was that information which caused Mr. Bulfinch to prepare 
his affidavit and which gave such importance to the extracts he had 
made more than thirty years before from the original log-book. 
Hubert Howe Bancroft, in his Northwest Coast, Volume I, page 
259, says : "The log of the Columbia on this trip has been lost, 
with the exception of a valuable fragment covering the time from 
the 7th to the 21st of May." In a footnote he says that the ex- 
tract was made in 1816 and was used by many subsequent publi- 
cations. 

The Boston Transcript, on May 10, 1919, announced that the 
Massachusetts Historical Society had received, as a bequest from 
the late Robert Apthorpe Boit, journals and log-books of his grand- 
father, John Boit, master-mariner. Mr. Arthur Lord, Treasurer 
of the society, in announcing the gift, gave some valuable biograph- 
ical facts about John Boit. He was born on October 15, 1774, 
the son of John and Sarah Brown Boit, both of Boston. Robert 
Apthorpe Boit, in April, 1916, had written about his grandfather: 
"At the age of sixteen he started his first circumnavigating voyage 
as fifth officer aboard the ship Columbia, bound for the northwest 
coast of China [America]. His brother-in-law, Crowell Hatch, 
shipowner and merchant of Boston, was one of the chief owners 
of the ship Columbia. * * * John Boit kept complete journals 
of this voyage, and these discoveries are interestingly and minutely 
described by him. After returning from this voyage John Boit 
circumnavigated the globe in command of the Sloop Union. The 
many adventures of this voyage are fully told in his journals and 
log-books. Besides these there are logs and journals of various 
other voyages. That he was a man of acute observance and good 
judgment, a man of character and courage, his journals amply 
testify. * * * They have never been published." 

The journals of such a man would contain materials of in- 
terest in various parts of the world, but it seemed absolutely essen- 
tial that here in the Northwest we should have that part of his 



4 John Boit 

Columbia log which related the discoveries and experiences on 
these shores. Correspondence was at once opened with the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society to secure for publication a transcript 
of that important part of the journal. Mr. Worthington C. Ford, 
editor of the society, very courteously replied that the Columbia 
was a Boston ship, owned by Boston men and commanded by a 
Boston captain. The journal ought, therefore, to be published by 
the Massachusetts Historical Society. However, he would cooperate 
with the Washington Historical Quarterly in any way possible. 
This he has done in generous fashion. He has sent advance proofs 
of the pages to appear in Volume 53 of the Proceedings of the 
Massachusetts Historical Society. In transmitting the proofs, he 
said he had refrained from editing the journal because he had not 
command of the local names and stations, adding: "This will be 
your opportunity." 

We are grateful to the Massachusetts Historical Society for 
this generous cooperation and we trust that this linking of East and 
West may help to advance the growing feeling of American unity 
in historical interests. 

In addition to the fragment of the Columbia's log, referred 
to above, there are a number of other documents of prime import- 
ance which bear on this new log. 

The manuscript journal of Captain Joseph Ingraham of the 
brig Hope is in the Library of Congress. A complete photostat 
copy, including the chart and drawings, is in the University of 
Washington Library. Ingraham was a mate on the Cohimbia dur- 
ing her first voyage. He left her at Boston in 1790 and accepted 
command of the Hope, sent by Boston merchants, rivals to the 
group owning the Columbia. His journal has many entries relating 
to the work of his former associates. 

John Hoskins was supercargo or clerk of the Columbia during 
her memorable second voyage to the Northwest Coast. He kept a 
journal which is preserved in manuscript form in the Library of 
the Massachusetts Historical Society. A typewritten copy is in the 
University of Washington Librar}'. While it is a ver}' useful docu- 
ment, it ends in March, 1792, or just before the important discoveries 
of that spring. 

Hubert Howe Bancroft, in Northwest Coast, Volume I, pages 
186-187, says : "I have been so fortunate as to obtain an original 
diary of this voyage, kept by Robert Haswell, the second mate of 
the Lady Washington, a very important document, not consulted by 
any writer before me. Indeed it does not appear that any other log 



New Log of the Columbia 5 

of either vessel has ever been seen ; and consequently nothing but 
a brief mention of the expedition has been published. As a narra- 
tive of the first visit of an American vessel to the north-v^est coast 
this diary merits much more space than I can give it here — in fact 
it should be published entire." In a footnote he says that he obtained 
the document from Captain Haswell's daughter, Mrs. John J. 
Clarke, of Roxbury, Massachusetts. The author later adopted his 
own suggestion by publishing the document in smaller type at the 
end of the same volume, covering pages 703 to 735 of the second 
or 1886 edition. Hasv^rell w^as mate of the Columbia on her second 
voyage until the last of March, 1792, when he v^^as given command 
of the sloop Adventure, built by the Americans during the w^inter 
at Clayoquot. Bancroft's edition of his journal is a prime source 
and a helpful one. 

Captain George Vancouver's well known Voyage of Discovery 
to the North Pacific Ocean and Round the World has extensive 
references to the Columbia and the work of her officers and men. 
This source is supplemented by A New Vancouver Journal on the 
Discovery of Puget Sound, by a member of the Chatham's crew, 
published in this Quarterly in 1915. 

Captain Vancouver was fearful that Captain Gray or Captain 
Kendrick had proved that Nootka was part of a great island. Dr. 
C. F. Newcombe made an exhaustive study of that supposed voyage 
and published it in Victoria in 1914 as Memoir No. 1 of the 
Archives of British Columbia. 

Another helpful Canadian publication is British Columbia 
Coast Names, 1592-1906, by Captain John T. Walbran. 

One of the best narratives of Captain Gray's discoveries was 
prepared by Mr. Edward G. Porter and published in the New Eng- 
land Magazine, New Series Volume VI.. (June, 1892), pages 472- 
488. This narrative has been reprinted as Number 131 of Old South 
Leaflets. Among the embellishments of Mr. Porter's article is a 
facsimile of Captain Gray's signature. The "Robert" is clearly 
written and disposes of the spelling "Robery" as given in a number 
of documents. 

All these and other sources have been consulted in an effort to 
make of this Boit journal a substitute for the lost official log of 
Columbia. Only that portion of the journal is here reproduced 
which deals with the Northwestern Coast of America. All of that 
part is accurately given. Readers wishing the portions of the 
journal before or after the work on these shores may find them, 
as stated above, in Volume 53, of the Proceedings of the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society. 



6 John Boit 

The title page of Bolt's journal is as follows : 

Remarks on the Ship Columbia's voyage from Boston, (on a 
voyage round the Globe). 

By John Boit 

N. B. The dates etc., is by Nautical Account (Not Civill). 

The Ship Columbia was fitted out for a four years cruize, on a 
trading voyage to the N. W. Coast of America, China, etc. — about 
250 tons burthen, mounted 12 Carriage Guns, and navigated with 
50 men (including Officers) — own'd chiefly by Sam'l Brown, Joseph 
Barrell and Crowell Hatch Esq'rs, and commanded by Robert Gray. 
Cargo consisted of Blue Cloth, Copper and Iron. 

The footnotes by Mr. Ford are indicated by asterisks and are 
signed by his initials. The numbered footnotes are mine. 

Edmond S. Meany 



JOHN BOIT'S JOURNAL 

[1791] June 4. N. Latt. 49° 10'; W. Long. 120° 21'. This day 
made the land, on the NW. Coast of the American Continent be- 
tween Nootka, (or King George's Sound) ^ and Cliquot* (or Coxes 
harbour). For these severall days past we had seen whales, drifc 
wood, feathers, kelp, etc. All signs of its vicinity. Breakers pt. 
bore NEBE 8 leagues, high land back, and snow perceivable on 
some of the mountains. Wind from Southward. 

5. N. Latt. 49° 5' ; Correct W. Long. 125° 26' O (T . This day 
anchor in Coxes harbour,- and found it very commodious. This 
Harbour is made remarkable by three remarkable round Hills, 
abreast its entrance. Hannah,^ Chief of the village Ahhousett came 
on board and appeared friendly. Above 300 of the Natives was 
alongside in the course of the dav. Their canoes was made from the 



*Cayuela or Clayoquot — W. C. F. 

1 The famous British explorer, Captain .Tames Cook, in April, 1778, named the place 
King GeorRe's Sound. Later he changed this to Nootka, erroneously concluding it to be the 
Indians' name for the place. (See Captain .Tohn T. Walbran's Britigh Columiia Coast 
Names, pp. 359-362.) Two of Cook's officers were Master's Mate Nathaniel Portlock and 
Armourer George Dixon. In 1786, these two men came to the Northwest coast in command 
of the King George and the Queen Charlotte, owned by an association of merchants called 
the King George's Soimd Company. Nootka soon became known the world over as a definite 
geographical term but the temporary name created some curious confusion. Specimens of 
plants wore colleotcd and recorded as from King George's Sound. Tliey were type specimens 
from Northwestern America. In the meantime a geographic feature at the southwestern 
extremity of Australia was named King George's Sound. Botanists had to appeal to 
historians to solve a supposed mystery of the herbaria. 

2 In 1788, Captain .John Meares named an anchorage in Clayoquot Sound Port Cox, after 
•Tohn Henry Cox, a merchant residing in China and interested in the fur trade with the 
American coast. The name persists on Cox Point south of Templar Channel. (Walbran : 
British Columiia Coast Names, p. 119.) 

3 This was Chief Cleaskinah, who had taken for himself the name of the British cap- 
tain, James Hanna of the Sea Otter. 



New Log of the Columbia 7 

body of a tree, with stem, and stem, pieces, neatly fixed on. Tlieir 
models was not unlike our Nantucket whale boats. The dress of 
these Indians was either the Skin of some Animal, or else a Blankett 
of their own manufactory, made of some kind of Hair.* This gar- 
ment was slung over the right shoulder. They all appear'd very 
friendly, brought us plenty of fish and greens. We tarry'd in this 
harbour till the 16th June, landed the sick, immediately on our 
arrival and pitch'd a tent for their reception, and although there 
was ten of them in the last stage of Scurvy, still they soon recover'd, 
upon smelling the turf, and eating greens of various kinds. We 
buried severall of our sick, up to the Hips, in the earth, and let them 
remain for hours in that situation. Found this method of great 
service. The principal! village in this harbour is called Opitsatah,^ 
and is governed by Wickananish, a warlike Chief. He and his 
family visited us often. The Indians brought severall Deer, and 
plenty of Rock Cod, Salmon, and other fish. Wild parsley, and a 
root call'd Isau or Isop, by the natives and much resembling a 
small onion, was brought us in abundance. We purchas'd many of 
the Sea Otter skins in exchange for Copper, and blue Cloth. These 
Indians are of a large size, and somewhat corpulent. The Men 
wear no other covering, but the gamient before mentioned, and 
seem to have no sense of shame, as they appear in a state of Nature. 
The Women stand in great fear of the Males, but appear to be 
naturally very modest. Their garment is manufactured from the 
bark of a tree and is well executed, being so constructed as to cover 
them complete from the Neck to the Ancle. Both Male and Female 
wear Hats of a conicle form made out of strong reeds. On them 
is painted, (in a rude manner) their mode of Whale fishery. Attoo, 
the Captain's servant (and a native of the Sandwich Isle) ran away, 
among the Indians. A chief coming on board, plac'd a guard over 
him, and sent his Canoe back to the village with the news. They 
soon return'd with Mr. Attoo, and ransom'd their Chief. 

17. This day weigh'd the anchors and left Coxe's harbour. 
Fine weather, wind at SW. All hands once again on duty. Make 
the people use Spruce Tea, boil'd from the Boughs we took on 
board, for that purpose and although not very palatable, I believe 
is an excellent Antiscorbutic. Bound along shore to the North and 
West. Saw woody point bearing EvSE 3 or 4 leagues. 



4 Judge F. W. Howay has discussed "The Dog's Hair Blankets of the Coast Sallsh" In 
the Washington Historical Quarterly, Vol. IX., pp. 83-92. 

5 Mr. Bolt later expresses sorrow at being ordered to destroy this village. (See Note 
37, helow.) 



8 John Boit 

At anchor in Columbia's Cove and Juan de Fuca Straits. 

20. N. Latt. 50^^ 6'; W. Long. 128° 12'. Moderate breezes. 
At 8 P. M. abreast Woody point,^ lay'd off and on, through the 
night. At daylight made sail, for Chickleset sound, out Pinnace, 
and sent her ahead of the ship to sound. At 8 A. M. abreast the 
entrance of the sound. Hove to. At 10 the pinnace made the 
signall for an harbour. Bore away, wind at NW. At Meridian 
anchor'd in a small Cove, (which we named Columbias).^ In this 
situation we was completely land lock'd. Vast many natives along- 
side. They appear'd much the same as those at Coxs harbour and 
talk'd their language. We laid in this harbour till the 26th, during 
which time got many Sea Otter and land furs, from the Natives, 
in exchange for Copper, Iron and Cloth, (with Beads, fish Hooks 
and such small stuff kept the Ship supplied with various kinds of 
fish and greens, with a few deer). These Natives was generally 
arm'd with Bows, arrows, and spears. Like those at Clioquot they 
would pilfer whenever an opportunity offer'd. Their Women were 
more Chaste than those we had lately left. But still they were not 
all Dianas. During our tarry here I visited one of the villages in 
the sound, found the Natives busily employ'd building Canoes, and 
packing provisions against the ensuing Winter. They treated me 
quite friendly. They dry their fish in the Sun, and then pack it in 
neat wooden boxes. D^" Necessity is the mother of invention. 

26. This day left Columbia's Cove, and stood along shore 
towards the Straits of Juan De Fuca. Crew all well. Steering to 
the South and East'd. This is an Iron bound Coast, with high land 
back. 

27. This day pass'd Clioquot, with a fine breeze from WNW 
and pleasant. 

2B. N. Latt. 48'^ 42' ; W. Long. 124° 0'. Enter'd the Straits 
of Juan De Fuca and hove to abreast the Village of Nittenatt,* 
found strong tides. Vast many Natives off, with Sea Otter and 
other Furs, which we purchas'd with the same articles as before. 
'T was evident that these Natives had been visited by that scourge 



6 The most prominent cape on the northwestern coast of Vancouver Island. It was named 
Woody Point by Captain James Cook in 1778 but in 1860, Captain GeorRe H. Richards of 
the British Surreying yessel Plumper, changed the name to Cape Cook in honor of the 
great explorer. 

7 Probably in Nasparte Inlet, south of Cape Cook. In some journals the name is 
Naspatee. 

8 .Tohn Meares in his Voyages, published in London In 1791, showed Barkley Sound 
charted as Berkley's Sound. Vancouver's chart, 1792, shows Alherni Canal, but the whole 
sound is shown as "Nitinat." The most recent charts show Barkley Sound and to the 
southeastward, near the shore, is Nitinat Lake. This might well have been the scene of the 
trade mentioned, as It is near the north entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 



New Log of the Columbia 9 

of mankind the Smallpox. The Spaniards, as the natives sa>, 
brought it among them. These Indians appear'd friendly. 

N. Latt. 48° 23'; W. Long. 124° 0' O ([ * d . Kept beating 
about the entrance of De Fuca Straits till 3d July, on SE. parts 
(of¥ a small Isle) call'd Tatooch," we collected many Otters. These 
natives gave the preference to Copper. Fine Halibut and Salmon 
was procured in abundance. Nails, Beads etc. serv'd for this traffic. 
This Chief at Tatooch's Isle offer'd to sell us some young Children 
they had taken in war. 

July 3. N. Latt. 49° 1'; W. Long. 126° 20'. Left the Straits. 
At 6 P. M. Cape Flattery''' (so named by Capt. Cook) bore SEBE 8 
leagues. Standing along shore to the Westward, wind from the 
East'd. 

4. Took the wind from the Westward, employ'd beating to 
windward the land about 12 leagues. Many Whales. 

At anchor in Barrull's Sound, in Queen Charlotte 

Isles. 

8. N. Latt. 52° 10'; W. Long. 131° 12'. This day anchor'd 
in Barrells sound^^ on the SE. part of the Queen Charlotte Isles, 
20 fathom, rocky bottom. Sent the Pinnace, with an officer, to 
seek better anchorage, which was soon found. Got under way and 
stood up sound, and anchor'd in 15 fathom muddy bottom. A Chief 
by name Coyac, came along side, with plenty of other Indians. The 
Natives here are much stouter than any we had before seen, and 
appear to be very savage. The j\Ien go quite naked, except a skin. 
over the shoulder. The Women are entirely cover'd, with Garments 
of their own manufactory, from the bark of tree. They appear to 
carry full sway over the men and have an incision cut through the 
under lip, which they spread out with a piece of wood, about the 
size and shape of a goose egg (some much larger). It's considered 
as an ornament, but in my opinion looks very gastly. Some of them 
booms oul two inches from the chin. The women appear very fond 
of their offspring, and the Men of both. We remain'd in this sound 
till the 17th. During which time we purchas'd a good lot of Sea 

9 Named by John Meares on June 29, 1788, in honor of Chief Tatoosh, whose tribe was 
there fishing. 

10 On March 22, 1778, Captain Cook saw a small opening "which flattered us with the 
hopes of finding an harbour." Being disappointed as to a harbor, he gave the name to 
Cape Flattery. (A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Vol. II., p. 263.) 

11 Named in 1789 by the Americans during the first voyage of the Columbia and Lady 
Waxhington after Mr. .Joseph Barrell, one of the owners of those vessels. During the British 
surveys by Mr. G. H. Inskip in IS.'i.S the name was changed to its present form Houston 
Stewart Channel in honor of William Houston Stewart, who later rose to the rank of admiral 
in the British Navy. The same waterway was for a time called Ibbcrtson's Sound, so named 
by Captain George Dixon in 1787. 



10 John Boit 

O'lcr and other furs chiefly for Iron and Cloth. Copper was not in 
dt^niand. The boats were sent frequently after wood and water, 
but were always well arm'd. The Natives supplied us with plenty 
of Halibut and Rock Cod, for which we paid them in Nails. Wild 
fowl was plenty in this Sound, of which we caught and kill'd many. 
I landed at one of their villages, found the Indians comfortably 
lodg'd, ajid kept large fires, although the weather was temperate. 
When I went into one of their houses they was eating roast muscles 
and singing a warlike Song. They appear'd fond of our visit and 
never ofTer'd to molest any thing in the boat. Their canoes are not 
made near so neat as those we had seen before, but I think was 
more commodious. The females was not very chaste, but their lip 
pieces was enough to disgust any civilized being. However some 
of the Crew was quite partial. 

In the Straits of Admirai, Defont. 

17. W'eigh'd and left Barrells sound, bound to the Straits of 
Admiral De Font,*^- which is form'd by the Charlotte Isles and the 
Main. 

18. N. Latt. 51° 34'. Wind from Westward and pleasant, 
beating to and fro, off the South pt. of Charlotte Isles, endeavour- 
ing to get into the Straits. 

23. N. Latt. 52= 26'; W. Long. 131° 30'; Azi. 20° 22' E. 
Spoke the Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim^^ master from Boston, on 
the same business with ourselves. Soon parted. 

24. N. Latt. 53° 6'. A small Isle, in the Straits bore North 
at ]\Ieridian, which we named Hatches. Weather is generally clear, 



* Rio (le Rayer of Admiral Fonte. — W. C. F. 

12 Now known as Hecate Strait, an honor for the paddle-wheel sloop which arrived for 
survey service in December, 18U0. 

13 Captain .Joseph Ingraham was formerly mate of the Columbia. The manuscript 
journal of his voyage in the Hope is in the Library of Confess. A photostated copy is in 
the Library of the University of Washington, and a copy is also in the Archives of the 
Province of British Columbia. .Tudge F. W. Howay has published a careful study of the 
journal in the Washington Historical Quarterly, Volume XI., pages 3-28. Boit's brief men- 
tion of the meeting on .Tuly 23, 1791, is more fully treated by Captain Ingraham as follows : 
"At 6 in the morning we discovered a sail to the south'd of us and a head as we were stand- 
ing. I soon discovered it to he the Columbia and dotemiin'd to speak her — accordingly we 
made sail towards thorn as soon as I tho't they could see us plain. I had a French flagg 
hoisted at our Fore top gallant masthead and fir'd 2 guns which was the signall I inform'd 
Mr. Haswell I should make if I saw him on the coast in the small vessel the Columbia 
had on board in frame and which he was to command at 8 oclock we were alongside each 
other. Wo saluted them with 3 cheers which were retum'd. I went on board the Columbia 
agreeable to Capn. Grays polite invitation. I had the happiness to find Captain Gray and 
all on board well likewise I received by this vessell Letters from my Friends in Boston 
which altlio dated but 10 days after our departure was yet a great satisfaction. For these 
letters I am indebted to Mr. Haswell who bro't them unknown to the Owners of the Columbia. 
These gentlemen filled with envy and malice against all who went to share with them this 
valuable trade gave orders that no Letters should be borne out in their ship to any one on 
board the Hope." .Tohn Hoskins, clerk or supercargo of the Columbia, kept a journal, which 
is saved as a valuable manuscript by the Massachusetts Historical Society. A copy is in 
the Library of tlio University of Washington. Mr. Hoskins describes this meeting with 
Captain Ingraham and records the three cheers of good will. He gives a brief record of 
Captain Ingraham's experiences and of the tragic death of the younger Captain Metcalf 
among the Sandwich Islands. 



New Log of the Columbia 11 

so that the Isles and Main are distinctly seen together. Found 
ground at 120 fm. The Natives wou'd often come along side from 
the Alain, or Isles, as we border'd on either shore, and brought 
furs and plenty of Halibut, which you cou'd buy for a board Nail 
apiece. 

28. N. Latt. .S3° 14'; W. Long. 132° 0' ; Azi. 21° 35' E. Ship 
over towards the Main. Sent an officer in the pinnace in search of 
anchorage. Found the land hereabouts low and barren near the 
shore, but rises back into high mountains. Find excessive strong 
currents in these Straits. The Natives on the Main speak a lan- 
guage different from those on the Islands. Boat returned without 
success. 

30. N. Latt. 52° 47'; W. Long. 131° O (T . Fresh gales and 
stormy weather. At Meridian Charlotte Isles extended from SB W 
to WBN 8 or 10 leagues. Some Canoes full of Indians boarded 
us from the Isles. They infomi'd us that severall English vessels 
had visited not long since. We purchased a good lot of furs, chiefly 
for Iron and Cloth. 

31. Stood towards the Islands, and anchored in 24 fm. with 
a Kedge. Light wind from NW. A Chief (by name CuniswahY^ 
brought us several fine Sea Otter skins. 

August 1. Wind from SE. Standing along the Queen Char- 
lotte Isles, through De Font straits, about 3 or 4 leagues from land, 
soundings generally from 15 to 25 fm. mud. The main land in 
sight to the North and West'd at a great distance. 

2. Fresh gales and very thick weather. Narrowly escaped 
running on a reef of rocks. Quite foggy and see the land but sel- 
dom, beating to and fro. Wind from the Eastward. 

3. N. Latt. 54° 43'; W. Long. 132° 23'. Heavy gales from 
SE. and thick weather, found the Ship embay'd, employ'd making 
short hanks. At length we being too nigh the shore for to keep off, 
through the night, we was alarm'd with all the horrors of a lee 
shore. A small opening appearing in the land to leeward, hove 
out the pinnace and sent an officer to examine for anchorage. At 
6 in the evening she made a signal for a Harbour. Bore away and 
anchored under a point of land, in 17 fm. sandy bottom, let go 
three anchors, it being a wild road stead. We remain'd in this 
station, which we call'd Port Tempest^^ till the 8th and only foui 



14 His name is preserved on the charts in Cumshewa Inlet at the northeastern extremity 
of Moresby Island, one oi \he Queen Charlotte Islands. Captain Ingraham's journal gives 
the chief's name as Cummashawaa, and others gave it as Gumshewa. He was a man of 
power in the days of the traders. 

15 From the entry of August 1, it is clear that Prince of Wales Island was mistaken for 
the mainland and it may be that Port Tempest was on the sonthem shore of that large 
Island. 



12 John Boit 

Indians made their appearance, and I believe there was no villages 
in the vicinity. Made severall excursions, with boats, and procur'd 
many vSalmon and plenty of Berries. In one of these excursions I 
discover'd a small rivulet, not deep enough to admit the boat. In it 
we caught upwards of 100 fine salmon, chiefly with the boat hook 
and grainz, and shot a deer upon the banks. Crew all in health. 

8. Got under way and left Port Tempest (situated on the 
main land of America), stood over for land in sight to the North'd 
and westward, and as Ave approach'd it severall Canoes came off, 
with furs and halibut. 

10. N. Latt. 55° 0'; W. Long. 133° 0'. Light winds and 
pleasant, standing to the NW. and 6 P. M. came to with the Kedge 
28 fm. Port Tempest bearing NEBN. 12 leagues. The Natives 
brought us plenty of fine Otter furs. Their Canoes are the same 
as at Charlotte Isles, some of them capable of carrj^ing 30 men. 
They go well arm'd, with bows, arrows and spears, and appear to 
be a savage race. I went in the Cutter — well arm'd — to a small 
cove, not far distant from the Ship, and soon caught 9 large Halibut. 
The Ship was concealed by a point of land, making out from the 
NE. part of the Cove. 

12. Still laying at anchor in same situation as on the 10th, 
the nearest land not above 3/2 mile distant, and the point of the 
Cove I was fishing in on 10 inst. about ^4 mile. Mr. Caswell this 
morning took a Boatswain Mate and one Seaman with him in the 
Jolly Boat, by the permission of Capt. Gray, and went to the Cove 
a fishing. A breeze springing up soon after, and wishing to leave 
this place, a six pounder was fird, a signal for the boat to return. 
She not appearing, soon after two more Cannon was fir'd. Go: 
the Ship under way and stood off and on, and sent the pinnace 
under charge of the 4th officer in search of the small boat. Soon 
after we see the Pinnace returning with the Jolly Boat in tow, 
without any person in her and soon discover'd they had the Boats 
Colours hoisted half mast. With this melancholy token they ap- 
proach'd the Ship, when we soon discover'd our worthy friend, and 
brother officer, Mr. Joshua Caswell (2d) lay dead in the bottom of 
the boat, strip'd perfectly naked and stab'd in upwards of twenty 
places. They saw nothing of John Folger (the boatswains mate) 
but Joseph Barnes (the Sailor) lay dead on the beach, and quite 
naked. Fearing the Natives lay in ambush, they did not land to 
take of the Corps. It is probable they were beset upon by a great 
superiority of natives, prompted by a desire to possess their cloaths 
and arms. As soon as the boats retum'd made sail for Port Tern- 



New Log of the Columbia 13 

pest, and anchor'd in the evening, at our former station. In Mr. 
Caswell I lost a firm and steady friend. He was a man of mild 
and gentle temper, a complete Seaman, and in short was possest 
of eveiy qualification that bespoke the gentleman."^ Observ'd that 
the day previous to this disastrous affair few Indians had visited 
the Ship. 

NW. End of Charlotte Isle. 

13. N. Latt. 54° 43'; W. Long. 132° 23'. Calm, and tem- 
perate weather. At 8 in the morning the 4th Officer was dispatch'd 
with a party well arm'd in the Pinnace, for to dig a grave for our 
worthy friend. At 9 the pinnace retum'd. At 10 left the Ship with 
three boats, tmder charge of Mr. Hazwell, 1st Officer, with the 
corps, the Ship firing minute guns. At 11 Capt. Gray landed in a 
small boat, and after performing divine service, we inter'd the 
remains of our departed, and much beloved, friend, with all the 
solemnity we was capable of. 

The place was gloomy, and nothing was to be heard but the 

bustling of an aged oak, whose lofty branches hung wavering o'er 

the grave, together with the meandering brook, the Cries of the 

' Eagle, and the weeping of his friends added solemnity to the scene. 

So ends. 

15. Weighed, and left Port Tempest, wind at NW. At sunset 
it bore NBW. 6 leagues, and (Massacre Cove)^'^ West 5 Miles. 
Saw none of the Natives. No doubt the Rascles wou'd have de- 
stroy'd the Jolly boat after they had massacred our unfortunate 
countrymen, had not the Ship's gims alarm'd them. Standing to 
the South and E. 



16 The Hoskins manuscript has a similar appreciation of the slain officer and some addi- 
tional facts about him as follows: "Mr. Joshua Caswell was about twenty six years of 
affe bom of reputable parents in the Town of Maiden a small town about four miles from 
Boston early in life he went' to sea in the beginning of the late war he was so unfortunate 
as to be taken by the English who retained him a prisoner during the greatest part of the 
remainder of it on the happy return of peace he again followed the sea and by his merit 
soon rose to be a Captain in the merchant service this he gave up and took the office of 
second mate of this ship having a great prediliction for the voyage in every respect he was 
a reputable good seaman of a most happy serene placid disposition in most cases too passive 
he was loved and beloved by all who knew him he was an honest man which Pope says 'is 
the noblest work of God.' " 

17 The cove thus named is not easily located. The points given would fix the place in 
Dixon Entrance. Captain Ingraham's manuscript journal says the tragedy occurred on the 
main in latitude 55. Robert Greenbow in Oregon and California, pages 229-30, who cites the 
log of the Columbia, says that Captain Gray explored what Vancouver later named Portland 
Canal and part of it Gray called Massacre Cove on account of the murder of Caswell and 
two seamen. Captain Walbran in Britisk Columbia Coast Name», page 323, accepts that 
location and gives the present name of the cove as Halibut Bay. The journal before us 
certainly locates the cove and Port Tempest nearer the open sea. See the entry for August 
18, saying Massacre Cove and Hancock River on the northwest coast of Queen Charlotte Island 
are but twenty leagues apart. H. H. Bancroft in Northwest Coast, Volimie I., page 25. 
quotes Greenhow giving the date of the tragedy as August 23 but adds in a footnote that it 
must have been earlier. This record fixes the date as August 12, 1791. The Hoskins manu- 
script says that Port Tempest and Massacre Cove are parts of an extensive inlet to which 
they gave the name of Brown's Sound and fixed the points at 55 deg. 18 min. north latitude 
and 132 deg. 20 min. west longitude. If these descriptions could be studied by someone 
familiar with those shores a more complete identification of the cove might be arrived at. 



14 John Boit 

16. This day spoke the Brig Hancock of Boston, Samuel 
Crowell, Master. They was on the same business as ourselves, 
and had been pretty successful. Capt, Crowell inform'd that his 
Longboat was cruizing among the Charlotte Isles, under charge of 
his 2nd Officer. The Brig kept us company. 

18. Pleasant weather. Came to anchor, in a River, which 
Capt. Crowell had named Hancocks, situated on the NW part of 
the Queen Charlotte Isles, in company with the Brig, 6 fm. water, 
mud. The Brig's Longboat we found at this place, vast many 
of the Natives along side the Ship, and a few furs was purchased. 
Capt. Crowell had, upon some trifling offence, fir'd upon these 
Indians, by which a number of them fell, (such wanton cruelty 
throws him upon a levell with the savage), and perhaps this same 
fray was the means of our losing our worthy 2nd Officer as the 
places are not 20 leagues distant and mayhap they reck'd their 
Vengeance upon us, thinking us all of one tribe. If it was so, bad 
luck to Crowell. Amen. 

At anchor in Cuoquot harbour. 

19. N. Latt. 54° 12'; W. Long. 132° 25'. Fine weather. The 
Hancock saild on a Cruize. The land about this River, is the best 
without exception I've yet seen, on the NW. Coast, and a place 
well calculated for a Factory for to reap the advantages of the fur 
trade. ^^ The Natives, I dare say, have always plenty of Otters, 
and there is fish in abundance. Hove up, and came to sail towards 
evening and stood to sea, light winds and very strong tides. At 
sunsett Murderers Cape bore NNW. at a great distance. 

20. N. Latt. 53° 49'; W. Long. 133° 24'. Soundings from 7 
to 12 fm., shoal water about these parts of Charlotte Isles. Stand- 
ing to the Southward through Defont straits, running along the 
Isles in from 15 to 30 fm. according to distance off shore, these 
Charlotte Isles are from the Latt. 51° 55' to 54° 24' N. and from 
Longitude 131° 0' to 133° W. 

22. N. Latt. 53° 2' ; W. Long. 131° 31' ; Amp'd 20° 2' E. O d 
Many of Indians of this day from Cumswah village, in Charlcot^^ 
Isles, brought a few skins, but I think they are pretty well drain'd. 
Came to, with the Kedge in 20 fm. about 2 miles from shore. Soon 
after see a Boat rowing towards us, and heard a Cannon fir'd in the 

1 8 This same good opinion was held by Captain Ingraham who wrote : ' 'I informed 
Senor Quadra several particulars relative to Hancock's River on the North part of Washing- 
ton Isles." On the former voyage Captain Gray had given the name "Washington" to the 
Qneen Charlotte Islands. 

19 He meant to write it "Charlotte." 



New Log of the Columbia 15 

sound. At 3 P. M. Mr. Cruft, 1st Officer of the American Brig 
Hope (which we had spoke with before) came along side, with 
Capt. Ingrahim's compUments, and offer'd to be the bearer of 
Letters, as he was shortly bound for Canton.^" We readily em- 
braced the opportunity. At dark Mr. Cruft left us. Up Kedge 
and bore away to the southward and East'd. 

23. N. Latt. 52° 37'; W. Long. 130° 22'. The SE part of 
Charlotte Isles bore SE><E. 12 leagues, light winds and variable. 
A Canoe boarded us, at this great distance, and brought many 
prime furs. 

28. N. Latt. 49° 20' ; W. Long. 127° 16'. At Noon this day, 
Nootka (or King Georges sound) bore ENE. 10 leagues. Since 
the 23d we have never lost sight of the Continent. 'T is very high 
land. Saw whales. 

29. N. Latt. 49° 5' ; W. Long. 126° 0'. At Noon the entrance 
of Clioquot (or Coxes harbour) bore NE 4 leagues. Standing in 
for the harbour, and towards evening anchor'd in our former sta- 
tion, vast many of the Natives along side, and seem'd glad to see 
us again. Found riding here the Brig Lady Washington,-'^ of 
Boston, John Kendrick, master. He had made up his Voyage and 
was bound for Canton. He appear'd happy in meeting with his 
old friends. 

N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 125° 26' O C * d . Captain Ken- 
drick inform'd us that he had had a skirmish, with the Natives 
at Barrells sound in Queen Charlotte Isles, and was oblidg'd to 
kill upwards of 50 of them before they wou'd desist from the 
attack. It appear'd to me, from what I cou'd collect that the 
Indians was the aggressors. This Brig Lady Washington was a 
Sloop when she left Boston, but Capt. Kendrick had alterd her rig 
in Canton the year before. I was sorry to find that Kendrick had 
made no remittances, to the owners, since he had parted with the 
Cohimhia the first voyage, although since that period he had made 
two successful trips from this Coast to Canton. As the Vessells 
still belong'd to the same owners he was under some mistrust that 
Capt. Gray was empower'd to seize the Brig, and kept himself 

20 On July 23, Captain Ingraham expressed himself about the mall brought to him 
against the orders of the owners of the Columbia. He does not gloat over this opportunity 
of returning good for evil. He wrote: "I sent my boat with an officer to present my 
compliments to Capn. Gray and inform him I was bound to China (this season) and as I 
knew he must winter on the coast to set up the small vessel he had in frame, I would bear 
any commands he might have for America with pleasure and forward them from Canton by 
some ship of our nation." 

21 Consort of the CoJumlia on the former voyage. 



16 John Boit 

always ready against attack.--. We tarried in this harbour till the 
8th Sept., during which time collected many Sea Otter and other 
furs, and fish in abundance. These Natives miss'd Mr. Caswell, 
and it was thought proper to inform them that he had died a natural 
death. 

September 8. Weighed and beat out of the harbour, wind at 
SW. At Noon Clioquot bore NW. 6 leagues standing toward Juan 
De Fuca straits. 

In the Straits of Juan De Fuca. 

11. N. Latt. 48° 15'; W. Long. 124° 30'. This day abreast 
Cape Flattery, on the SE. part of De Fuca entrance, vast many of 
the Natives along. Purchas'd many Otters. These Indians told 
us, there was five sail of Spaniards up the straits. At Midnight 
saw Tatoosh Isle, bearing NNE. 3 miles. Thought ourselves fur- 
ther off shore. Almost calm, and an excessive strong tide sweep- 
ing us between some ledges and the Isle. At daylight thick fog, 
saw the Rocks a head, within pistol shot, with high breakers. Out 
all Boats, and just towed the Ship clear. Our situation was truly 
alarming, but we had no business so near the land in thick weather. 
However Good Luck prevail'd and a breeze springing up from 
offshore we stretch'd out clear in Boats. Foggy disagreeable 
weather. Cou'd observe at intervals that the woods were on fire.-^ 

12. Wind NE. Heard the roaring of Breakers, foggy, haul'd 
more off shore. At 3 P. M. saw a rock about stone's throw dis- 
tant, and narrowly escaped being dash'd upon it — damn nonsense 
to keep beating about among rocks, in foggy weather. At mid- 
night heard the surf roar again, which I suppose to be on the North 
side of the Straits, sounded and found ground at 25 fm. Rocks. 
The Captain, at length, was frightened,-* and proceeded with the 
Ship to a good offing (this ought to have been done long before), 
thick foggy weather, with a moderate breeze. 

16. N. Latt. 48° 14'; W. Long. 124° 30' d *. Fog clear'd 
off, saw Cape Flattery bearing NNE. 2 leagues. Ver\- strong tides. 
At Noon we were about 2 miles from Tatooch Isle. Came to with 
the Kedge, sandy bottom, the Island bearing North. I think it 



22 Robert Haswell's journal, August 29, 1791 : — "At 4 P. M. a ranoe came off and 
informed us that Capt. Kendrick was in the harbor. At 5 saw his boat cominp off. Fired 
a gun and hoisted our colors. This was answered and he came alongside and was saluted 
with 3 cheers. * * • Capt. Kendrick spent the evening with us, and went late aboard 
his own vessel." Mr. Haswell spent the next afternoon with Captain Kendrick and found 
that he had beached his ves.sel to grave her and had piled his stores and provisions in a 
place which he called "Fort Washington." (Bancroft, Northwest Coast, Vol. I., p. 722.) 

23 A bit of evidence that forest fires were here in 1791 before the first white settlers 
arrived. 

24 When Captain Cook named Cape Flattery (see footnote 10 above) he encountered a 
storm and took his ship from this same dangerous shore out into the open sea. 



New Log of the Columbia 17 

possible there is a passage between Cape Flattery and this Isle of 
Tatooch ; it appears about 2 miles wide. However cou'd see break- 
ers between them and currents are excessive strong, as we cou'd 
discern them to foam in that narrow pass. Many Natives came 
off, and we purchas'd a few skins and plenty Halibut. Weigh'd 
and came to sail towards evening, bound to Clicquot. 

At anchor in Clioquot harbour. 

18. N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 125° 26'. This day anchor'd 
in our Old Station in Clioquot harbour, found the Brig Lady 
Washington still riding here. At this Harbour Captain Gray had 
determin'd to winter, if he cou'd find a suitable place, for to build 
a Sloop of 45 Tons, for to assist in collecting furs, on the next 
season. The stem and stern post, with part of the floor timbers 
had been brought from Boston for this purpose. 

19. On the 19th Capt. Gray went with two boats up the 
sound, for to seek a convenient cove. In the evening the Captain 
retum'd, having found a place to his mind, about 4 leagues from 
where the Ship lay. 

Winter Quarters. Latt. 49° 9' N; Long. 125° 30' W. 

20. On the 20th weigh'd, with light airs, and with the Boats 
ahead, assisted by the Brig's Crew, we tow'd, and sail'd, into winter 
quarters, which we call'd Adventure Cove,^^ and moor'd Ship for 
the winter. Vast many of the Natives along side, and appear'd to 
be highly pleas'd with the Idea of our tarr}'ing among them through 
the Cold Season. The Columbia lay moor'd in this Cove till the 
25th of March, 1792. I shall endeavour to give the heads of our 
proceedings during that period. 

Adventure Cove was situated in about the Latitude of 49° 15' 
N. and Longitude 125° 30' W. of London, about 17 miles from the 
Ocean. This Cove was form'd by an Isle and the SE. shore Clio- 
quot sound — so small, that when the Ship was moor'd, you might 
throw a stone upon the beach in any direction, the passage in was 
not to exceed 100 feet, so that we was in a complete bason. (At 
25th inst. Capt. Kendrick sail'd for Canton.) The Adventure was 
set up at the back of a fine beach, the woods being previously 
clear'd. A Log House was erected near, mounted with two Cannon, 
with Loop holes for Musketry. Here Capt. Haswell, with a party 
of Seamen, and all the Mechanics was station'd. Near it, the Black- 



25 One of the coves within Clayquot Sound, possibly Toftno Inlet. The sloop they were 
about to build also received the name Adventure, by some written "Adventurer." 



18 John Boit 

smiths and Boat builders Shops were plac'd ; two Saw pitts was 
erected, and kept constantly at play, sawing planks, and was sup- 
plied with Logs from the sound, by Boats constantly on that duty. 
So that Adventure Cove soon had the appearance of a young ship 
yard. Strip'S the Ship to a gritline, and kept a gang under the 
directions of the Boatswain upon the rigging. 

The Natives ma(ie us frequent visits, and brought a good supply 
of fish and some Sea Otter Skins, and by keeping a small boat down 
sound, with 4 of our Seamen we procured a constant supply of 
wild Geese, Ducks and Teal. The Geese and Teal resembled those 
at home, but the Ducks were exactly of the same Species, with the 
tame of our Country. We see none of any other kind. Now and 
then we shot a wild turkey.-^' The Natives appear'd to be highly 
pleased with the different works going on at the Cove. They some- 
times brought us Venison and supplied us with as many hoards as 
we wanted. They was all caeder, and appear'd to have been split 
with wedges, from the Log.-'^ 

October 7. An alarm was given by the Gentry at the Block 
house, that there was Canoes in the Cove. Finding they was dis- 
cover'd they soon went off. 

13. The frame of the Sloop was up complete, and this day 
brought the Garboard streak of Plank to her bottom. This is what 
I call dispatch. Wickananish,-^ high Chief, came on board, with 
severall of the Royal family. He inform'd that his winter village 
was a great way off, which occasioned his visiting us so seldom. He 
went on shore, and astonishment was conspicuous in his counte- 
nance at the work going on there. The Natives was very much 
puzzled to know how we shou'd get the Sloop off when finish'd, as 
she was 75 foot back from high water mark. Wickananish is the 
most powerful chief we have yet seen on this Coast. His tribe 
consists of upwards of 3000 souls. They allow Polygamy, but the 
women are not prolific, as barrenness is very common among them. 
The Indians girls kept us well supplied with Berries of different 
kinds, which was very gratefull. 

14. We was inform'd this day that Capt. Crowell, in the Brig 
Hancock, was at Juan de Fuca straits. 

27. The Natives brought us some excellent Salmon. Experi- 
ence much rain, which hinders the work. When the weather is 
too bad for to work on the Sloop, keep the Carpenters under shelter 

26 Tliere were no wild turkeys there. It must have been a large grouse. 

27 Such boards were observed in 1905 at Neah Bay and Tatoosh Island. They seemed 
ancient and St was thoughll that stone axes had been used in shaping them. 

28. Captain Meares in, 1788 spelled the chief's name Wicananish, which form is used 
by Hubert Howe Bancroft {Northvoeet Coast). 



New Log of the Columbia 19 

making a boat for her. Heard of three Spanish ships being at 
Nootka. Keep always upon our guard against surprize as we are 
among a powerful sett. The boat after game, met with some 
Indians that was a little troublesome, but by firing a musket over 
their heads they soon went off. These Indians was very enquisi- 
tive, for to know the cause of thunder and lightning, but we cou'd 
not make them understand the real cause, but much surprized them 
by saying there was a man in our Country, that made both. They 
suppose thunder to be occasioned by an Eagle carrying a Whale 
into the air,-^ and Lightning, the hissing of a Snake, which are 
exceeding large in this country. One of our Seamen, being down 
sound a gunning, saw one of these animals, which by his discrip- 
tion was as big round as his thigh. Being alone, and somewhat 
frightened, retir'd without firing. These Indians are very super- 
stitious in regard to this Animal, for when they go on a whaling 
cruize they always rub their face with a piece of it. We have never 
been able to gain much information as respects their Religion, but 
they certainly pay adoration to tlie Sun, and Moon, and believe in 
Good and evil Spirits. They lash their dead on the trees, first stow- 
ing them in a box 3 or 4 feet long. The Head and Legs are cut 
off to make good stowage, and little valuables that belong to the 
deseas'd are bury'd with them. Capt. Gray went to an Indian Vil- 
lage for to look at a Chief, said to be very sick. On his arrivall 
he was received very cordially, and conducted to the sick man's 
house, which was full of people. In one Corner lay the Sick Chief, 
and around him eight strong men, which kept pressing his stomach 
with their hands, and making a most hideous Bow-wowing, in the 
poor fellow's ears. Upon the Captain's approach he suppos'd the 
Chief to be nearly dead, and order'd this band of Doctors to desist. 
A ?? Having made him some gruell to take, the Chief 
soon came to a little, and order'd two Sea Otter 
skins as a present. After giving him a Wine toast he order'd him 
to be left to sleep, and visited a number of Chiefs houses, the mas- 
ters of which treated him with an attention not very common 
among savages. (He returned on board.) I made an excursion 
to this same Village, not long after. As soon as I landed, Men, 
Women, and Children came down to the beach to receive me, but 
did not offer to molest the boat. Found the sick Chief much better, 

29 At Maquinna Point, entrance to Nootka Sound, there was observed In 1903 a large 
and ornate figure of the thunder bird towering with outstretched wings over the whale. It 
was placed there in honor of Chief Maquinna, a successor of the original chief of that name. 
It related to the same legend mentioned in this text. Indian women had participated in the 
honor ratmtioned by sacrificing two valuable Singer sewing machines, which in 1903 were 
badly weather scarred. 



20 John Boit 

and reliev'd him from his pressing and noisy friends. The house 
was large and commodious, and wou'd hold fifty Indians very com- 
fortably. All round was packages of Fish in Boxes, and decorated 
with pearl shells. Their furniture consisted chiefly of matts, and 
wooden boxes, which last serves to boil their fish in, which they 
easily do by applying red hot stones, till it boils. They neither scale 
or draw the fish, but as it comes from the water, so it goes into the 
box, to boil, or on the Coals to broil. There was severall fires 
about the house but being there being no chimnies, the smoak was too 
mighty for my eyes. They sleep on boards, rais'd about a foot 
from the ground, and cover'd with matts, rolling themselves up 
with furs. Over the sick man's head there was a board cut out in 
the shape of a heart, and stuck full of Otter's teeth, with a long 
spear on each side of him. His young wife did not appear to be 
aff'ected at the sight of her sick husband, but the Father and Mother 
was watching their Son, with the most parental affection. After 
boiling him some rice and leaving more with his mother, I left the 
village and returned safe on board. 

25. This day was kept in mirth and festivity by all the 
Columbia's Crew, and the principal Chiefs of the sound, by invita- 
tion, din'd on board ship. The Natives took a walk around the 
work shops on shore. They was surprized at seeing three tire of 
wild fowl roasting, at one of the houses — indeed we was a little 
surprized at the novelty of the sight ourselves, for at least there 
was 20 Geese roasting at one immense fire, and the Ship's Crew 
appear'd ver\' happy, most of them being on shore. The Indians 
cou''d not understand why the Ship's and houses was decorated 
with spruce bows."*" At 12 clock fir'd a federall Salute, and endetl 
the day toasting our sweethearts and wifes. 

1792. January 1. This day, being down sound, with the Jolly 
boat after game, I stopt at the village. Visited Yethlan the sick 
Chief, and found him much better. The family treated me ex- 
tremely well. I received many pressing invitations from the rest of 
the Chiefs, for to visit their houses, and complied with most of them, 
and was particularly pleas'd at visiting Wickananish's dwelling, 
who this day had given an entertainment to all the warriors of his 
Villages, with many visitors from distant villages. As soon as the 
King saw me I was call'd towards him, and seated upon his right. 
This house was about 80 foot long, and 40 broad, and about 12 feet 
high, with a flat roof. The Kinci was elevated about two feet 
hijrher than the company, with a Canopy over his head, stuck full 



30 One of Oie earliest celebrations of Christmas on the north Pacific coast. 



New Log of the Columbia 21 

of animals teeth. The Company consisted of above 100 men, all 
considerably advanced in years. The Women belonging to the 
house was in an apartment by themselves, busily employ'd making 
their Bark Garment. The Machines for that purpose, is not un- 
like the Looms with us. They are very neat and dexterous in 
this business. The entertainment (which consisted of Fish Spawn 
mixed with Berries and train Oil,) was served up in wooden 
Bowls, handed by the lower Orders of males. I was invited 
strongly to partake, but the Smell was enough — therefore pleaded 
indisposition. After they had done, the remains was sent to the 
females. The King inform'd they was going to have a dance in 
the evening, and wish'd me for to stay. However I declin'd, and 
return'd on board. This Village was 3 leagues from Adventure 
Cove. Capt. Hannah, a Chief of the village, Ahhousett some- 
times came to see his old friends (as he call'd us). He resided 9 
leagues from the Cove but was under the Jurisdiction of Wicka- 
nanish. 

6. This day one of the Chiefs of Juan De Fuca Straits came 
on board. He was upon a visit to Wickananish, and indeed had 
married his sister, inform'd us there was a Spanish Ship in the 
Straits, brought many furs. 

17. Began to caulk the Sloop Adventure' s bottom, it being 
completely planked up. I this day made an excursion to the 
Village, having put myself under the car of Tatoochkasettle, one 
of the King's brothers, who conducted me in his Canoe. Upon my 
arrival was treated as usuall very politely. I took up my resi- 
dence at Tatoochkasettle's house, who invited a large company to 
sup with him. After supper finding I wishd to visit some other 
familys he sent his servants with lighted torches, for to conduct 
me. I return'd back about Midnight and found there was an 
excellent watch kept throughout the village, each one hooping at 
certain intervals throughout the night. My Indian friend had 
made me as comfortable a berth to sleep on as was in his power, 
but the House being full of smoak, and the young Children very 
fractious, occasion'd my sleeping but little all night. In the morn- 
ing early observ'd most of the Men bathing on the Beach. On 
enquiring the cause, was inform'd that this day the King was going 
to give his Eldest Son the name of Wickananish, and take an- 
other upon himself, upon which account there was to be great 
rejoicings. About noon, upwards of 100 men assembled upon the 
beach in front of the Village, with the King at their head. Their 
dress, which was exactly uniform, consisted of a Blankett, made 



22 John Boit 

fast round the Loins with a Girdle, and reach'd about half way 
down their thighs. Their hair was tum'd up, and tyed with a 
thick bunch before and decorated with feathers. Their faces was 
painted of different colours, and their bodies of a deep red. Beads 
and fibres of Bark were woulded round their Ancles and Knees, 
and at a distance they made a grand, although savage appear- 
ance. They collected near the water, at one end of the village, 
in regular tiers, about four deep. At each wing many women were 
placed with Copper Boxes, in which was small Stones, serving as 
part of the music. The procession moved slowly along, the front 
squatting on their hams, the others standing erect, with three of 
the King's brothers upon their shoulders, who were dancing and 
running from right to left, in that position while those under them 
was on the Continual move. The King kept in front, giving the 
word of Command. All their voices kept perfect tune with the 
rattling of the boxes. The rest of the inhabitants were seated 
along the beach viewing the performance. When they arrived 
opposite the King's house, they enter'd single file, and I followed 
to see the transactions within doors. About 30 of the principal 
Actors seated themselves in a Circle, and was presented with a piece 
of board and a small stick. This they used instead of a Drum. 
The whole Company then began to dance and sing, and the Musi- 
cians joining, made it very pleasing. But the Smell was too strong 
for my Organs. Therefore soon drew off. These Natives are mild 
and chearfull, with little of that savage appearance that Savages 
generally have. Their Complexions is ver\' light Copper, but they 
darken it with Oil and Paint. The Hair is coarse, long and black. 
'T is a general custom to eat their own Vermin,^^ and they are so 
plenty that they will often make a decent repast. The Men are 
generally thick set with flat noses and broad faces. The Women 
are pretty. Their eyes are rather small, and though they are not 
very quick and piercing, they give the countenance a frank, chear- 
full, and pleasing cast. We understood from the Natives that they 
sometimes made Human sacrifices, and shocking to relate, that they 
eat the flesh of such poor victims. However I do not believe that 
this custom is very common and only happens on some ver}' par- 
ticular Occasion. A prisoner of War is the person selected for this 
savage feast. ^- 

18. This day severall chiefs came on board, one of which we 
found was busily employ'd talking with our Sandwich Island lad. 

31 This filthy habit has been observed by many visitors among the coast tribes. 

82 Tliis description of the natives and the visit on shore are more fully recorded in the 
Hoskins manuscript. Mr. Hoskins says that he was Invited by Chief "Tootiscoosettle" and 
"I therefore went in his boat accompanied by Mr. Boit and tarried until the following day 
at sunset." 



New Log of the Columbia 23 

Their conversation was soon put a stop to, and the Lad examin'd, 
but he denyd that the Chief ask'd him any improper questions. 
These Natives, always behaving so friendly, occasion'd us to place 
too much confidence in them, and what a pity it is, that we cou'd 
not leave this port, with that opinion of them which we had here- 
tofore held ; But alas ! We find them to be still a savage tribe, and 
only waiting an opportunity for to Massacre the whole of us, in 
cold blood. The Ship had been brought some days previous to this, 
to a bluff point of Rocks, where she lay'd as to a wharfe, not even 
touching the ground at low water. The Cannon and all the stores 
was landed here, as we was about hauling on the beach to grave 
and pay the Bottom. The situation of the Ship at this period was 
very favorable to their views, and must have encouraged them with 
the hope of destroying the whole of us ; without the loss of a man 
on their side. However in this they wou'd have been mistaken, as 
we kept a strong watch, under the conduct of an Ofificer and was 
always guarded against surprize. But shou'd we have been over- 
pow'd by numbers, our friends perhaps never wou'd have known 
our sad fate. 

But fortunately, in the evening, the Sandwich Island lad made 
a confession to his Master, (as follows). ^^ He said Tatooch- 
kasettle, (the Chief) told him, that Wickananish was about to take 
the Ship and Massacre all the Crew, and said he shou'd be a great 
man if he wou'd wet our Musketts, and steal for him some BuUetts. 
He said they shou'd come that night, or the next, and told him to 
come over to them, when the fray first began. This news alarm'd 
the Ship's Company exceedingly, and we immediately got in readi- 
ness to receive them. Capt. Gray call'd his officers together, for to 
consult what w^as best to be done, and we was unanimously of 
opinion that 't was best to haul the Ship on the ways, and grave her, 
as the tide then suited, and we cou'd retreat in safety to the Block 
House shou'd the Natives appear, (where we had several Cannon 
mounted and good quarters.) This plan was immediately put in 
execution, leaving a strong guard on the point for to guard the 
Stores, with necessary signals shou'd they want relief. By midnight 
one side of the Ship was finish'd, when we heard a most hideous 
hooping of Indians, and at every shout they seem'd to come nearer. 
Every man immediately took his arms, and stood ready, both on 
board ship and at the Log house. They kept hooping about one 
hour, when they ceas'd and 't is probable retreated, lamenting their 

33 Haswell pives this same record with graphic details. (Bancroft, Northwest Coast, 
Vol. I., pp. 725-726.) A more thrilling accovmt is found in the Hoskins manuscript. It was 
certainly a narrow escape for the entire party. All hands worked feverishly during the 
starlit night and were prepared when the attack came just before dawn. 



24 John Boit 

hard luck, that the cruel plan was so completely frustrated. The 
guard at the point saw many large Canoes off the entrance of the 
Cove, but like brave fellows, they scorn'd to quit the station. In 
the morning tide we finish'd the Ship, and haul'd again to the point, 
and in the course of the Day took on board all the stores and 
cannon, and moor'd off in the Cove, in our old berth. Scal'd the 
Guns, which made all rattle again, and I believe never was more 
work done in so short a time. But Men determin'd can do most any 
thing. 

It does not appear that Wickananish wish'd to conquer a part 
of us, as he had frequent opportunitys to have accomplish'd it, for 
two or three times a week a boat was down at the Village, gener- 
ally with an Officer and four Sailors, but I suppose he very pru- 
dently thought, that shou'd he cut a boat's Crew off, there was still 
enough left, for to destroy his Villages. The Chiefs had been tell- 
ing us for some time that they was going to war with a distant 
tribe and wish'd for us to lend them Musketts and Ammunition, 
which some of these fellows used as well as ourselves. We had 
observed of late that they did not seem so cheerfull as common, 
but seem'd to be deeply wrapt in thought. After this, no more of 
the Natives visited Adventure Cove, except some old women and 
young girls, who brought us berries and fish — and most probable 
they was sent as spies. 

March 4. This day the Ship was completely rig'd, hold stowed, 
and in every respect in readiness for sea. She look'd like a fiddle! 
The King's Mother came along side and brought some otter skins 
which we purchased. She told Captain Gray that the Moon in- 
f orm'd her Son if he come to the Ship he wou'd be killd. 

21. This day departed this life, after a lingering sickness, 
Benj. Harding (Boatszvain)r* He was a smart, active, and steady 
man, and one that know'd, and did his duty in every respect. 
Deposited his remains, next morning, near to the Block house, after 
performing divine service. Promoted a Seaman to his place. 

22. Launch'd the Sloop Adventure. She went off admirably. 
Took a hawser and got her along side the Ship, and soon had her 
rig'd. 

24. The Sloop Adventure is ready for sea. Capt. Haswell, 
Isi mate of ship, went on board and took charge, taking with him. 
Mr. Waters (4th mate) and a crew of ten Seamen and trades- 

34 Haswell says that Hardinj; was thirty one years of age and had been suffering from 
djTientery. Hoskins spells the name "Harden" and says he was '"well respected in his office" 
and then adds: "The spirits of this man was surprizing the night we expected to be attacked 
by the natives at a time when he was not able to be removed from his bed he begged that 
he might have a pair of pistols laid along side of him that shoiild the natives overpower us 
he might shoot the savage who came to take his life then says ho I shall die in peace." 



New Log of the Columbia 25 

men.** I think she was one of the prettiest vessels I ever saw, of 
about 45 tons, with a handsome figure head and false badges, and 
other ways touch'd off in high stile. There was not a Butt either 
in the Planks on deck or sides, and the plank not above nine inches 
wide. She was victuall'd for a four months cruize, and supplied 
with Articles for the Queen Charlotte Isles trade, on which route 
't was meant she shou'd go, while the Ship proceeding along the 
Southern Coast. 

25. Pleasant weather, wind at SE. In the morning got the 
Remainder of our affairs from the shore, and unmoor'd. Left 
Adventure Cove, and stood down Sound, with the Sloop in com- 
pany. We left our log houses all standing. Anchor'd abreast the 
Village Opitsatah, but found it entirely deserted. Observ'd very 
few Canoes moving. 

During our long tarry in Adventure Cove, we all enjoy 'd good 
health, although the Crew was at times very much exposed. The 
boatswain's sickness commenced before our arrival in the Cove. 
The weather was generally very fine, and very seldom had Snow, 
and never Ice thicker than a Spanish Dollar,*^ but experienced fre- 
quent heavy rains. We pick'd Whurtle and Blue berries, through- 
out the winter, which was very fine, and Whurtle Berry pudings 
was quite common with us. We kept the Crew continually supplied 
with Spruce beer, and their breakfast and supper was Tea boild 
from the green Spruce boughs sweetned with Molasses. Perhaps 
this method kept the vScurvy off. However they did not eat much 
Salt provisions, as we was generally supplied with Poultry, Venison, 
and fish. 

27. I am sorry to be under the necessity of remarking that 
this day I was sent, with three boats all well man'd and arm'd, to 
destroy the village of Opitsatah. It was a Command I was no ways 
tenacious of, and am grieved to think Capt. Gray shou'd let his 
passions go so far.*" This village was about half a mile in diameter, 
and contained upwards of 200 Plouses, generally well built for 
Indians; every door that you enter'd was in resemblance to an 
human and Beasts head, the passage being through the mouth, 
besides which there was much more rude carved work about the 



35 Has-well makes uo mention of this but on April 2, he says that he received his sailing 
orders early in the morning of that day. 

36 Experience with that money in Revolutionarj- days made the "Spanish Dollar" a 
familiar figure of speech. 

37 Haswell does not mention the destruction of this village. Hoskins records a visit to 
the deserted village on March 28, one day after Bolt's record and does not mention the 
destruction. He does, however, complain bitterly about Captain Gray's policy which made 
confirmed enemies out of that particular tribe. Bolt's record of destroying the village need 
not be doubted although the Hoskins manuscript calls in question the date. 



26 John Boit 

dwellings some of which was by no means inelegant. This fine vill- 
age, the work of Ages, was in a short time totally destroy'd. 

Cruizing to the vS. and E. of De Fuca Straits. 

April 2. Weigh'd in company with the Sloop, and left Clio- 
quot harbour, and stood to the South'd with the Ship, while the 
Sloop haul'd her wind to the Northward. Parted, with loud Huszas, 
a proper rendevous^^ being appointed. 

3. On the 3d passed De Fuca Straits, experience blowing 
weather on the coast, but generally keep sight of the Land. The 
Shore seems sandy, and the land of a moderate height, with much 
clear ground fit for cultivation. Lat. 45° 15'. There is regular 
soundings of this Coast, which is not the case to the Northward. 

7. N. Latt. 44° 56'; W. Long. 122° 52'. Very blowing 
weather, and quite cold. Beating off the Coast, waiting for to 
find a good harbour. The weather grows pleasant. 

9. N. Latt. 44° 24'; W. Long. 122° 17'. Pleasant weather, 
wind NW. Rimning along shoar to the South and East'd, about 2 
miles off the land trended NBE. and NEW., and look'd very 
pleasant. The Shore made in sandy beaches, and the land rose 
gradually back, into high hills and the beautiful fields of grass, 
interspersed among the wood lands, made it delightfull. 

10. N. Latt. 43° 45'; W. Long. 122° 11'. Abreast a small 
inlet in the land, which had some the appearance of an harbour. 
Hove to for some canoes that were coming off. These Natives 
talk'd a different language from any we have before heard. Their 
canoes had square stems, and the blades of the paddles oval. We 
purchas'd of them many fine Otter skins for Copper and Iron. 
They had some raw Buffaloe"^ in the canoes, v.-hich they offer'd 
us for sale, and greedily devourd some of it, in that state, as a 
recommendation. I'm fearfull these fellows are Caniballs. Mr. 
Smith, 2d Officer, was sent in the Cutter to look for an harbour 
but was unsuccessful. Bore off and made sail. Cape Gregory (so 
call'd by Capt. Cook) bore SE. Variation. Amp'd 15° 57' East. 

11. N. Latt. 42° 50'; W. Long. 122° 3'; Amp'd 16° 42' E. 
Some Canoes came along side full of Indians and brought a few 
Otter and Beaver skins. Cape Mendocin bore ESE. 2 leagues. 
Hauld again to the Northward. 

17. N. Latt. 44° 54'; W. Long. 122° 23'; Azi. 16° 57' E. 
Sent the Boat, under charge of 2d officer, to examine an inlet 

38 The place will be foimd to be Columbia's Core. 

39 He may have refcired to elk. There were no buffaloes on the coast. He made a 
similar blunder as to wild turkeys. See note 26. 



New Log of the Columbia 27 

abreast the Ship, to see if there was safe anchorage, but was un- 
successful. A large Canoe came along side full of the Natives. 
By their behaviour the Columbia was the first ship they ever saw. 

22. N. Latt. 46° 39'; W. Long. 122° 50'; Azi. 17° 33' E. 
Still beating about, in pursuit of anchorage. Sent the boat in shore 
often, but cou'd find no safe harbour. The Natives frequently 
came along side, and brought Otter furs and fish. Their language 
to us was unintelligible. Experience strong currents setting to the 
southward. We have frequently seen many appearances of good 
harbours,*" but the currents and squally weather hindered us from 
a strict examination. However Capt. Gray is determin'd to per- 
severe in the pursuit. 

At anchor off the Village Kfnekomitt. 

27. N. Latt. 47° 52' ; W. Long. 123° 30'. O d . This day 
stood in shore, the weather having become more settled, and 
anchor'd with the Kedge in 15 fm. sand, abreast a village, call'd 
by the Natives Kenekomitt, which was situate on a small Hill, just 
back of the Beach. The Indians brought us a fine lot of Skins, 
which we got chiefly for Copper, but the weather coming again 
unsettled, we weigh'd towards evening and stood off making short 
hanks off and on, shore. These Indians spoke the same language 
as those in De Fuca straits. 

28. This day spoke his Britannic Majesty's Ships Discovery 
and Chatham, commanded by Capt. George Vancover, and Lieu- 
tenant Wm. Broughton, from England, on a voyage of discovery.*^ 
Left England April 1st, 1791, Do. Otaheita January, '92, and Sand- 

40 Among these was the evidence of a great river at 46 deg. 10 min., as will appear 
later. 

41 Captain Vancouver gives an account of this meeting as follows: "At four o'clock, a 
sail was discovered to the westward standing in shore. This was a very great novelty, not 
having seen any vessel but our consort, during the last eight months. She soon hoisted 
American colours, and fired a gun to leeward. At six we spoke her. She proved to be the 
ship Columbia, commanded by Mr. Robert Gray, belonging to Boston, whence she had been 
absent nineteen months. Having little doubt of his being the same person who had formerly 
commanded the sloop Washington, I desired he would bring to, and sent Mr. Puget and Mr. 
Menzies on board to acquire such information as might be serviceable in our future opera- 
tions." Captain Vancouver was delighted to learn that Captain Gray, while in the Lady 
Wanhingfon, had not made the "singular voyage behind Nootka" with which he was credited 
by publications in England. He records some of the information obtained by his officers 
from Captain Gray, including: "He likewise informed them of his having been off the 
mouth of a river in the latitude of 46° 10', where the outset, or reflux was so strong as to 
prevent his entering for nine days." In a later entry Captain Vancouver thoroughly scouts 
the idea of such a river, saying: "We ooxild not possibly have passed any safe navigable 
opening, harbour, or place of security for shipping on this coast, from Cape Mendocino to the 
promontory of Classet [Cape Flattery] ; nor had we any reason to alter our opinions, not- 
withstanding that theoretical geographers have thought proper to assert, in that space, the 
existence of arms of the ocean, communicating with a mediterranean sea, and extensive 
rivers, with safe and convenient ports." {Voyage of Discovery Round the World, second 
edition. Vol. II., pp. 41, 42, 43, ^9.) Another journal of Vancouver's voyage has a similar 
denial as follows: "So far as we had yet proceeded up these Straights, we had seen no 
opening, nor the appearance of any Harbour, on the Southern, or Continental Shore ; now 
two or three openings present themselves, and as the great object of the voyage was if 
possible to discover a communication by water between this Coast and the Lakes situated on 
the other side of America, the Continental Shore must of course be kept always aboard and 
all openings minutely explored." (A Xew Vancouver Journal on the Discovery of Puget 
Sound, By a Jtemier of the Chatham's Crew. Edited by Edraond S. Meany, 1915, p. 6.) 



28 John Boii 

wich Isles March, '92. A boat boarded us from the Discovery, 
and we gave them all the information in our power. Especially 
as respected the Straits of Juan De Fuca, which place they was 
then in search of. They bore away for the Straits mouth, which 
was not far distant. Stood in and drain'd the village we was at 
yesterday and then bore off after the English ships. 

29. Pass'd Tatooch Isle, close on board, and left a large ledge 
of Rocks without us, and stood into the Straits of De Fuca. Many 
Indians came off and brought plenty of furs. The English ships 
came too towards evening on the South entrance of the straits. In 
the morning they got under way and stood up. We stood in and 
anchor'd, to the Westward of Cape Flatter}', in 17 fm. Trade not 
very brisk. Got under weigh again towards evening and stood to 
the S. and E. along shore. 

May 1. N. Latt. 47° 52'; W. Long. 123° 30'; Azi. 17° 30' E. 
Anchor'd off the Village Kenekomitt,*- in the place we left on the 
27th April. Tatooch Isle bore WBS. 2 leagues. A brisk trade 
for furs. 

3. Hove up and made sail for the Straits, the weather look- 
ing threatning and soon enter'd them, found smooth water. Kept 
beating to and fro, in preference to casting anchor. 

5. Stood in toward Tatooch's Isle. The Natives brought 
plenty of Halibut and other fish, but few Skins. Stretch'd out 
from De Fuca Straits and bore off to the S. and E., running along 
shore, about 2 miles from land. 

6. Hove to for some Canoes to come up. They brought us 
fish but no skins. Bore oft". These fellows belong'd to a small 
village in sight from the Ship, call'd Goliew. 

At anchor in Gray's harbour. 

7. N. Latt. 46° 58'. Saw an inlet in the land, which had all 
the appearance of an harbour. Sent the Cutter, under charge of 
2d Officer, to examine it. Laying to, a strong current with Squally 
weather. The Boat retumd, and the Officer reported that he cou'd 
find nothing but breakers at the entrance, but farther in it had the 
appearance of a good harbour. This appearance being so flatter- 
ing, Capt. Gray was determin'd not to give it up. Therefore order- 
ing the boat a head to sound, with necessary signalls, the Ship 
stood in for the weather bar and we soon see, from the Mast head 
a passage in between the breakers. Bore off and run in NEBE., 

42 The points of the compass given are of no assistance in locating this village. 



New Log of the Columbia 29 

having from 4 to 9 fathom sand, an excellent strong tide setting 
out. The boat having made a signal for anchorage and a good 
harbour, we continued to stretch on till completely within the shoals 
when we anchor'd in 5 fm. in an excellent harbour.*^ Vast many 
canoes came off, full of Indians. They appear'd to be a savage set, 
and was well arm'd, every man having his Quiver and Bow slung 
over his shoulder. Without doubt we are the first Civilized people 
that ever visited this port, and these poor fellows view'd us and 
the Ship with the greatest astonishment. Their language was dif- 
ferent from any we have yet heard. The Men were entirely naked, 
and the Women, except a small Apron before made of Rushes, 
was also in a state of Nature. They was stout made, and very 
ugly. Their canoes was from the Logs, rudely cut out, with up- 
rfght ends. We purchas'd many furs and fish. 

8. N. Latt. 46° 58'; W. Long. 123° 0'. Vast many canoes 
along side, full of Indians. They brought a great many furs which 
we purchas'd cheap, for Blankets and Iron. We was fearfull to 
send a Boat on discovery, but I've no doubt we was at the Entrance 
of some great river, as the water was brackish, and the tide set out 
half the time. This evening heard the hooting of Indians, all hands 
was immediately under arms. Several canoes was seen passing 
near the Ship, but was dispers'd by firing a few Muskets over their 
heads. At Midnight we heard them again, and soon after, as 't 
was bright moonlight, we see the canoes approaching to the Ship. 
We fird severall cannon over them, but still persisted to advance, 
with the war Hoop. At length a large canoe with at least 20 ]\Ien 
in her got within Y^ pistol shot of the quarter, and with a Nine 
pounder, loaded with langerege* and about 10 Muskets, loaded with 
Buck shot, we dasli'd her all to pieces, and no doubt kill'd ever>' 
soul in her. The rest soon made a retreat. I do not think that 



43. This discovery of Grays Harbor is one of the two great achievements of Captain 
Robert Gray on the northwest coast of America. The other was the discovery of the Columbia 
River, which occurred a few days later. Fortunately, there have been saved from Captain 
Gray's destroyed log of the Colurnbia extracts giving the important entries recording these 
discoveries. That pertaining to Gray's Harbor is as follows : 

"May 7, 1792, A. M. — Being within six miles of the land, saw an entrance in the same, 
which had a very good appearance of a harbor ; lowered away the jolly-boat, and went in 
search of an anchoring-place, the ship standing to and fro, with a very strong weather- 
current. At 1 P. M. the boat returned, having found no place where the ship could anchor 
with safety ; made sail on the ship ; stood in for the shore. We soon saw, from our mast- 
head, a passage in between the sand-bars. At half past 3, bore away, and run in northeast 
by east, having from four to eight fathoms, sandy bottom ; and, as we drew in nearer 
between the bars, had from ten to thirteen fathoms, having a very strong tide of ebb to 
stem. Many canoes came alongside. At 5 P. M. came to in five fathoms water, sandy 
bottom, in a safe harbor, well sheltered from the sea by long sand-bars and spits. Our 
latitude observed, this day, was 46° 58' north." (House of Representatives Report No. 101. 
2r)th Congress, Srd session, dated January 4, 1839, p. 47. United States Public Documents, 
Serial Number 351.) 

* Langrage, case-shot loaded with pieces of iron of irregular shape, formerly used in 
naval warfare to damage the rigging and sails of the enemy. The origin of the word is not 
known. Captain John Smith mentions in his Seaman's Grammar (1627) langrill shot, but a 
century and a half passed before langrage came into use. — W. C. F. 



30 John Boit 

they had any conception of the power of Artillerv\ But they was 
too near us for to admit of any hesitation how to proceed.** 

9. Very pleasant weather. Many canoes came along side from 
down River and brought plenty of Skins ; likewise some canoes 
from the tribes that first visited us, and their countenances plainly 
show'd that those unlucky savages who last Night fell by the Ball, 
was a part of the same tribe, for we cou'd plainly understand by 
their signs and gestures that they were telling the very circum- 
stance, to their acquaintances from down River, and by Pointing 
to the Cannon, and endeavoring to explain the noise they made, 
made us still more certain that they had no Knowledge of fire arms 
previous to our coming amongst them. I am sorry we was oblidged 
to kill the poor Devils, but it cou'd not with safety be avoided. 
These Natives brought us some fine »Salmon, and plenty of Beaver 
Skins, with some Otters, and I believe had we staid longer among 
them we shou'd have done well. 

11. Weigh'd and came to sail, and stretch'd clear of the bar. 
Named the harbour we had left, after our Captain.*^ Standing to 
the South. 

At anchor in Columbia's River. 

12. N. Latt. 46° 7' ; W. Long. 122° 47'. This day saw an 
appearance of a spacious harbour abreast the Ship, haul'd our wind 
for it, observ'd two sand bars making off, with a passage between 
them to a fine river. Out pinnace and sent her in ahead and fol- 
lowed with the Ship under short sail, carried in from yi three to 
7 fm. and when over the bar had 10 fm. water, quite fresh. The 
River extended to the NE. as far as eye cou'd reach, and water 

44 The saved fragment of Captain Gray's log does not mention this attack. Later, when 
the Columbia met the sloop Adxcnture, Captain Haswell of the latter wrote in his journal 
under date of June 14, 1792: "They discovered a harbor in lititude 46° 53' N. and longi- 
tude 122° 51' W. This is Gray's Harbor. Here they were attacked by the natives, and 
the savages had a considerable slaughter made among them." (Bancroft, Northicegt Coast, 
Vol. I., p. 731.) In the same voliune, page 260, Bancroft says, in note 44, "The fight is 
not mentioned in the Columbia's log, and may therefore be an error of Haswell." If Ban- 
croft had had access to this Boit journal, he would not have written that note. 

45 This frank statement reveals just how Gray's Harbor got its name. Captain Gray 
had named it Bulfinch Harbor after Charles Bulfinch of Boston, one of the owners of his 
vessel. The saved fragment of his log does not give the entry bestowing that name but on 
May 11, 1792, the entry says: "At 8 P. M. the entrance of Bulfinch's harbor bore north, 
distance four miles." In the Ingraham manuscript journal the chart shows "Bulfinches 
Harbor." Haswell's journal (note 44. above) shows that he reflecte<l the will of the men 
in calling the harbor after their captain. On October 18, when leaving the northwest coast. 
Captain Vancouver ordered Joseph Whidbey in Ihe supply ship Daedalus to take one of the 
Discovery's boats "to examine Gray's harbour, said to be situated in latitude 46° 53'." Thus 
the English journals and charts at once used Grays Harbor instead of "Bulfinch Harbor." 
Tn 1838, Charles Bulfinch then seventy-five years of age, was appealed to for certified copies 
of the Columbin's log to sustain claims before the Government. In these he made It clear 
that Captain Gray had called his discovery "Bulfinch's harbor." 



New Log of the Columbia 31 

fit to drink as far dov/n as the Bars, at the entrance.*® We directed 
our course up this noble River in search of a Village. The beach 
was lin'd with Natives, who ran along shore following the Ship. 
Soon after, above 20 Canoes came off, and brought a good lot of 
Furs, and Salmon, which last they sold two for a board Nail. The 
furs we likewise bought cheap, for Copper and Cloth. They ap- 
pear'd to view the Ship with the greatest astonishment and no 
doubt we was the first civilized people that they ever saw. We 
observ'd some of the same people we had before seen at Gray's 
harbour, and perhaps that was a branch of this same River. At 
length we arriv'd opposite to a large village, situate on the North 
side of the River, about 5 leagues from the entrance. Came to in 
10 fm. sand, about ^ mile from shore. The River at this place 
was about 4 miles over. We purchas'd 4 Otter Skins for a Sheet 
of Copper, Beaver Skins, 2 Spikes each, and other land furs, 1 
Spike each. 

We lay in this place till the 20th May, during which time we 
put the Ship in good order and fill'd up all the water casks along 
side, it being very good. These Natives talk'd the same language 
as those farther South, but we cou'd not learn it. Observ'd that 
the canoes that came from down river, brought no otter skins, and 
I believe the otter constantly keeps in Salt water. They however 
always came well stocked with land furs, and capital Salmon. The 
tide set down the whole time and was rapid. Whole trees some- 

46 This is the great Columbia River. Jonathan. Carrer in 1766-1767, while travelling 
"through the interior parts of North America," obtained information vfhich caused him to 
surmise the existence of the "River Oregon, or the River of the West." It is now believed 
that he coined the word "Oregon." (Carver'8 TraveU, 1796 edition, pp. v and 48.) In 
1775, the Spanish explorer. Captain Bruno Heceta, called the north cape San Roque and 
the south cape, Cabo Frondoso. The bay between them he called Bahia de la Asuncion. 
Later the Spaniards changed this name to Ensenada de Heceta. They hinted at a river 
flowing into the bay. The British trader and explorer. Captain John Meares, in 1788, sought, 
but did not find, that river. He wrote : ' 'We can now with safety assert, that no such 
river as that of Saint Roc [Roque] exists, as laid dovra in the Spanish charts." To show his 
feelings he gave the bay and northern promontory their permanent names of Deception Bay 
and Cape Disappointment. (John Meares, Voyages Made in the Years 1788 and 1789, from 
China to the N. W. Coast of Ainerir.a, London, 1791, Vol. I., p. 270.) The date of May 12, 
1792, recorded by Mr. Boit, is evidently an error of one day. The date commonly accepted 
for this important event in American history Is May 11. However, there is room for curious 
confusion in the saved fragment) of the Columbia's official log, where the evening hoursi of 
May 10 are carried over into the entry of May 11, as will be seen in the following tran- 
script : 

"May 10. — Fresh breezes and pleasant weather; many natives alongside; at noon, all 
the canoes left us. At 1 P. M. began to unmoor, took up the best bower-anchor, and hove 
short on the small bower-anchor. At half past 4, (being high water,) hove up the anchor, 
and came to sail and a beating down the harbor. 

"May 11. — At half past 7, we were out clear of the bars, and directed our course to 
the southward, along shore. At 8 P. M. the entrance to Bulfinch's harbor bore north, dis- 
tance four miles : tlie southern extremity of the land bore south-southeast half east, and 
the northern north-northwest ; sent up the main top-gallant yard and set all sail. At 4 
A. M. saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-southeast, distance six leagues ; in 
steering sails, and hauled our wind in shore. At 8 A. M.» being a little to windward of 
the entrance of the harbor, bore away and run in east-northeast between the breakers, having 
from five to seven fathoms of water. When we were over the) bar, we found this to be a 
large river of fresh water, up which we steered. Many canoea came alongside. At 1 P. M. 
came to with the small bower, in ten fathoms, black and white sand. The entrance between 
the bars bore west southwest, distant ten miles ; The north side of the river a half mile 
distant from the ship; the south side of the same two and a half miles distance; a village 
on the north side of the river west by north, distant three quarters of a mile. Vast numbers 
of natives came alongside ; people emploj ed in pumping the salt water out of our water- 
casks, in order to fill with fresh, wTiile the ship floated in. So ends." 



32 John Boit 

times come down with the Stream. The Indians inform'd us there 
was 50 Villages on the banks of this river. 

15. N. Latt. 46° 7' ; W. Long. 122° 47'. On the 15th took up 
the anchor, and stood up River, but soon found the water to be 
shoal so that the Ship took the ground, after proceeding 7 or 8 
miles from our first station." However soon got off again. Sent 
the Cutter and found the main Channel was on the South side, 
and that there was a sand bank in the middle. As we did not expect 
to procure Otter furs at any distance from the Sea, we contented 
ourselves in our present situation, which was a very pleasant one. 
I landed abreast the ship with Capt. Gray to view the Country and 
take possession,* leaving charge with the 2d Officer. Found much 
clear ground, fit for cultivation, and the woods mostly clear from 
underbrush. None of the Natives come near us. 

18. Shifted the Ship's berth to her Old Station abreast the 
Village Chinoak*^ comm.and'd by a chief named Polack. Vast 
many canoes, full of Indians, from dififerent parts of the River 
were constantly along side. Capt. Gray named this river Colum- 
bia's, and the North entrance Cape Hancock, and the South Point, 

47 Here is a confusion of distances. In his entry of May 12, above, Mr. Boit says tJiey 
anchored near an Indian village "about 5 leagues from the entrance." Here on May 15, 
he says they had proceeded up the river "7 or 8 miles from our first station." Counting the 
league to be three miles, the total distance up the river was twenty-three miles according to 
this Boit journal. The original log of the Oolnmhia gives the first anchorage as ten miles 
from the entrance. (See note 46, above.) And that same log says, imder the date of May 
14, "at 4 P. M. we had sailed upwards of twelve' or fiiteen miles, when the channel was so 
very narrow that it was almost impossible to keep in it." Captain Gray's estimate is thus 
a total distance of twenty-two or twenty-five miles. It is interesting to note hat the two 
recorda are still one day apart. Mr. Boit records the journey up the river as on May 15, 
while Oaptain Gray gives the date as May 14. Hubert Howe Bancroft dismisses such 
differences as follows: "I shall have occasion in this and later volumes to name the works 
in which Gray's voyage is described or mentioned ; but none of them add anything to the 
original log which I have cited ; and the errors made are not sufficiently important to be 
noted." (Northwest Coast, Volume I., page 260, note 46.) Lieutenant W. R. Broughton 
in the Chatham entered the river on October 21, 1792, and made ani extensive examination 
which he later reported to his chief. Captain George Vancouver. About the lower portion 
of the river, Vancouver says: "Mr. Broughton had, for his guidance thus far up the inlet, 
a chart by Mr. Gray, who had commanded the American ship Coltmibia ; but it did not 
much resemble what it purported to represent." This ungracious fling was more than re- 
deemed when Mr. Broughton gave the name Gray's Bay in honor of the American discoverer. 
He stated that the bay "terminated the researches of Mr. Gray." This would give Gray's 
distance from the entrance to be between fifteen and sixteen miles. Broughton held that to 
be not a part of the river. He left the Chatham there and with the cutter and launch pro- 
ceeded up the river to what he named Point Vancouver. There he calculated his distance 
to be "from what he considered the entrance of the river, to be 84, and from the Chatham, 
100 miles." {Vancouver's Voyage of Discovery Round the World, second edition. Vol. III., 
pp. 87, 91, 108.) No effort was made by Broughton or Vancouver to change the name given 
by Captain Gray to the river. Confusion has arisen as to the exact location of Broughton's 
"Point Vancouver." The question Is carefully studied by T. C. Elliott In The Quarterly of 
the Oregon Historical Society. Volimie XVIII,, pages 73-82 (June, 1917. ^ After visiting 
the place with Interested friends on the anniversary, October 30, 1916, he says: "It at 
once became conclusive that Point Vancouver Is that low and quite broad point of land 
situated southeast from Washougal and southwest from Cape Horn, Washington, and nearly 
opposite to the railway station of Corbett, Oregon ; * * * it has come to be known by 
the river men a.s Cottonwood Point." 

* The words "and take possession" were inserted at a later time and are in quite a 
different ink. — W. C. F. 

48 Gray's log gives the spelling Chinouk. It is probably the first time that the name 
of the later famous jargon or trade language was recorded. An early settlement of white 
people on Baker Bay, nearer the mouth of the river, has retained the name of Chinook. 



New Log of the Columbia 37 

attack'd bv Indians, as none had been seen before. Immediately 
as we made our appearance the Ship cover'd us with the Cannon 
and the Grape and round shot, must have done considerable dam- 
age to our pursuers, as they fell just into the brink of the wood, 
where the thickest of the Indians was. This soon dispers'd them, 
and we got all safe on board. Some of these fellows afterwards 
came down abreast the Ship and brandished their Weapons at us, 
bidding defiance. 

8. N. Latt. 51° 30'; W. Long. 129° 30'; or thereabouts. Got 
under way bound farther up the Straits and towards evening luff'd 
into a small bend of the land, and came to in 17 fathom close to 
the shore. A few canoes, with Indians came off, who talk'd the 
Nootka language. They inform'd that in two days, through the 
woods, they cou'd reach Nootka Sound and indeed, the Ship was 
at Anchor near to a Mountain, which is plainly in view at Friendly 
Cove, (Nootka Sound ).^'' 

9. Many canoes of this day, and plenty of fine Otter Skins 
was purchas'd. About Noon, 20 large War Canoes hove in sight, 
with above 30 Men in each, and we soon discem'd with our Glasses 
that they was all arm'd, with Spears and Arrows. The friendly 
Indians that was trading along side, told us these people had come 
to fight, and belong'd to the tribe we had fir'd at two days before, 
when attack'd upon the beach. Capt. Gray thought it not safe to 
admit them along side at once, and therefore order'd them, when 
within hail, for to keep off, and not but one canoe come along side 
at a time. They obey'd the command, and one canoe, with 42 men 
came alongside, but had only a skin or two. We soon discover'd 
that the main body of canoes was paddling towards us, singing a 
War Song. We fir'd a cannon and some Muskets over their heads. 
At this they mov'd ofif about 100 yds. and again halted. A Small 
Canoe, with a Chief, (paddled by two Indians) kept constantly 
plying between the Ship and the main body of the Canoes, counting 
our men, and talking earnestly to the Natives along side, encourag- 
ing them to begin the attack. He was suflfer'd to proceed in this 
manner some time, when Capt. Gray told him to come near the 
Ship no more, but he still persisted, and was shot dead for his 
temerity. Also the Chief Warrior, of the Canoe along side, was 
shot, for throwing his Spear into the Ship. They then made a 
precipitate retreat, and the trading Indians, who had kept at a 
small distance viewing the transactions, again recommenced their 
trade with us. They inform'd us these Indians, who meant to 

56 He here hints at what Vancouver was soon to prove, that Nootka Sound is not a 
mainland harbor. 



38 John Boit 

attack us, was of another tribe with them. Canoes with Indians, 
came along side and traded away their Otter Skins, but not with- 
out Manifest signs of fear. 

12. The Natives kept bringing furs, which we purchas'd for 
Copper and Cloth. Iron very dull sale. 

From Pintard's Straits to Columbia's Cove. 

13. Weigh'd and came to sail, standing down straits saw a 
number of fishing canoes, at a distance but none came near. To- 
wards evening came to in 16 fm. at our former anchorage. See 
no Indians. 

14. Fair wind and pleasant, weigh'd and stood down straits, 
and at 9 in the evening got clear out bound to Columbia's Cove, 
our place of Rendezvous. Shou'd these straits join with Juan da 
Fuca, which perhaps it does, it must make the whole Coast between 
the Latitudes of 48° 15' and 51° 30' North and Longitudes 120° 57' 
and 129° 30' W. a vast Archipalago of Islands.^^ We named the 
port we had entred Pintards, after one of the owners, and I've no 
doubt we are the first discoverers.^^ It is certainly the most dan- 
gerous navigation we have experienced being full of Ledges, small 
Isles, no soundings and excessive strong tides. But I think it 
affords the most Sea Otter skins. We procured upwards of 300 
hundred, during our stay, and saild up this straits more than 100 
miles, and cou'd see no end. At our last anchorage, or rather the 
highest up the shore seem'd to trend about ESE. 

15. N. Latt. 51° 17'; Amp'd 21° 14' E. Head wind beating 
to and fro, making slow progress. The entrance of Pintards straits 
bore East, 3 or 4 leagues, 70 fm. water. 

17. N. Latt. 50° 6'; W. Long. 128° 12' O <L . Fresh breezes. 
This day spoke the Sloop Adventure, Capt. Hasv/ell, sent our boat 
and Capt. Haswell came on board the Ship. Bore off the Cove. 
'T is remarkable that we both meet within 12 league of our Rendez- 
vous bound in. The chief of the Sloop's Cruize had been about the 
Charlotte Isles, and had collected about 500 Skins, all prime. On 
the 24th of April Capt. Haswell fell in with the Ship Margaret of 
of Boston, James Magee Master."*^ They was on the same business 

57 Another hint at the impending discovery. 

58 They were real discoverers of that portion of the great waterway. The British 
officers had discovered and named the entrance and Vancouver was to approach in that same 
summer from the opposite entrance. Those Americans got little or no credit for that geo- 
graphic discovery but, as Mr. Boit says, they got many sea otter skins. 

.'')!) Haswell's journal for the date of this meeting, June 17, 1792, contains a brief 
account of the Columhia'f experiences. Mr. Bolt's effort to tell about Haswell's doings 
fixes on the wrong date. The meeting with Captain Magee was on May 7, instead of April 
24. In seeking Captain Magee, Haswell says: "I had been informed by some of Coyah's 
tribe that there was a ship lying at Barrel's Tnlet, and I had little reason to doubt them, 
as one of the natives had a jacJjet and trousers they had purchased of them, on the buttons 
of which was printed, Long live the President, G. W." (Bancroft, yorthicegt Coast, Vol. I., 
p. 729.) Captain Magee had brought letters from home greatly appreciated by Captain 
Haswell and the other Americans. 



New Log of the Columbia 39 

as ourselves. At 5 P. M. past Woody point, and at 7 anchored in 
company with the Sloop, in Columbia's Cove. A few Natives ven- 
tured along side, after much coaxing. (Found the Inscription at 
the watering place unmolested.) Took the Skins from Sloop on 
board ship. Sent parties on shore, well arm'd after wood and 
water. Purchas'd some furs. 

20. Haul'd the Sloop on shore, and graved her. Capt. Has- 
well says she is an excellent sea boat, and sails very well. The 
Indians among whom he traded never offer'd insult. 

21. Got the Sloop off the ways, and fitted her for another 
Cruize. 

24. Weigh'd and sail'd from the Cove, in company with the 
Adventure, bound to Queen Charlotte Isles. 

25. N. Latt. 50° 37'; W. Long. 129° 55'. Fair wind and 
moderate breezes. Sloop in company. The coast about 8 leagues 
distance. 

28. N. Latt. 52° 18'; W. Long. 129° 15'. Fresh winds, all 
sail out running along shore, about 3 leagues distance, with smooth 
sea. Sloop about 2 miles a head. At 2 P. M. the Ship struck a 
Rock, which lay about 7 feet under water and did not break, hove 
all aback, and she came off clear, try'd the pump, and found she 
leak'd 1000 smart strokes per Hour, sounded along the Rock, and 
found no ground at 70 fm. Hoisted a signal for the Sloop, and 
she immediately haul'd her wind for us. Stood off, both pumps 
just keeps the leak under. In the morning bore off to the North- 
ward. 

29. N. Latt. 53° 1' ; W. Long. 131° 41'. Came on a hard gale 
of wind, and although we kept firing Cannon through the night the 
Sloop parted from us, as 't was very thick in the morning. The 
leaks rather increas'd, and our feelings was not the most agreeable 
on the occasion."" 

Off Queen Chari^otte Isles (South part). 

30. N. Latt. 51° 57'; W. Long. 131° 10'. This day see the 
Queen Charlotte Isles, stood in pretty close to the South pt. and 
fother'd the Ship with a topsail which we had previously prepared 
for that purpose. This, fortunately for us, stop'd the leak one half. 

July 1. N. Latt. 51° 48'. Close in off the South pt. of Queen 
Charlotte Isles from which lay many detach'd Rocks. We pass'd 

60 Captain Haswell, in the sloop, was fearful that the CoUimhia had foundered and 
stood to and fro all day near the place of separation. He worvTed over the matter until he 
met Captain Ingraham, in the Hope, on August 21. He then Itemed that Captain Gray 
■was repairing the Columbia at Nootka. (Bancroft, Northwest Coast, Vol. I., p. 734.) 



40 John Boii 

the pt. within two or three miles and left many breakers without 
us in the Offing. We wish to get into Barrells sound. 

2. N. Latt. 51° 49'; W. Long. 130° 30'. Saw the entrance 
of Barrells sound, bearing NW., the wind direct in our teeth. 
Employ'd turning to windwards, with all the Elements against us. 
Crew all in brave health. 

3. Employ'd beating to windward through the night, in the 
morning spoke the Ship Margaret, James Magee, Master. Capt. 
Gray went on board the Margaret, and found Capt. Magee very 
sick. This ship stopt a few days at the Cape De Verds, and made 
her passage in 6 months. They had not been very fortunate in 
trade. Bore away to the Southward, in company with Capt. Magee, 
bound to Columbia's Cove, for the purpose of examining the Colum- 
bia's bottom. Fair wind at NW. 

At anchor in Columbia's Cove. 

5. N. Latt. 50° 6'; W. Long. 128° 0'. This day came to in 
Columbia's Cove in company with the Margaret. vSeveral canoes 
came along side, and the Natives appear'd quite chearfull. 

6. Hoisted all onr Cannon, in the longboats of both Ships, 
made a raft of our spare spars on which we put everything possible 
that wou'd not damage. Struck yards and topmasts. So ends. 

7. Took up the Anchor, and hauld the Ship on shore, on a 
fine beach, at high tide. When the tide ebb'd, 't was discover'd 
that the Ship's keel was split, and the lower part of the Stem was 
entirely gone, within 2 inches of the Wood ends, a great deal of 
Sheathing was off, and three of the plank next to Garboard Streak 
was stove on the larboard side. The Carpenters went to work and 
put in new pieces of plank but it was found impracticable to pretend 
to repair the bows without heaving down, or some such method, and 
this cou'd not be done in our present situation. Nootka Sound, 
where we knew there was a Spanish settlement, Capt. Gray tho't 
the most proper place, and we all concur'd in the opinion. 

8. Hauld the Ship off, and soon got ready to leave the Cove. 

Bound to Nootka Sound. 

10. N. Latt. 50° 6'; W. Long. 128° 0'. This day weigh'd, 
and again left the Cove, in company with the Margarett, standing 
towards Nootka, but overshot it in the Night, which is a misfor- 
tune. 

11. N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 125° 26'. Abreast Clioquot 
harbour, and as it's in vain to beat to Nootka with a strong breeze 



New Log of the Columbia 41 

a head, we bore up, and towards evening, in company with the 
Margaret, anchor'd in Clioquot harbour. The Natives were at first 
shy, but we prevail'd on some of them to come on board. 

12. Capt. Gray, having met with Wickananish on board the 
Margaret, prevail'd on him to visit the Columbia, but he did not 
appear happy. However 't was the means of getting more Skins, 
than we otherwise should have done. Employ'd wooding and water- 
ing (abreast the Ship) and under cover of her Guns. 

15. This day arriv'd in the Harbour the English Brig Venus, 
Henry Sheppard Master, 6 months from Bengali in India. I went 
off to him in the offing, and piloted his Brig to the harbour. He 
inform'd us that at a small harbour in De Fuca straits, where he 
was at anchor a few days since, there was a Spanish settlement, 
where lay a Spanish 64, the master of which while amusing himself 
in shooting back in the woods, was kill'd by the Indians, in conse- 
quence of which the Spaniards seized a Canoe full of Natives and 
massacred them all (in cold blood) not even sparing Children. 
Shocking to relate!"^ 

17. Weigh'd with a fair wind, and left Clioquot bound to 
Nootka sound, to repair the Ship, under the protection of the 
Spaniards. Left the Ship and Brig behind. The wind soon came a 
head, and we began turning to windward, without making much 
progress. However we shall reach it by perseverance. 

19. N. Latt. 49° 0'; W. Long. 125° 0'. Bad weather and the 
wind direct ahead. This day stood in and anchor'd in Clioquot 
harbour. Found the Ship made a poor hand beating to windward, 
without a Stem. Found the Brig Venus here, but Capt. Magee had 
sail'd. No canoes off. 

20. Wind favorable, weather more settled. Weigh'd at Day- 
light, in company with the Venus, and stood to sea. Wind soon 
haul'd in its old quarter. Employ'd beating to windward towards 
Nootka Sound. 

21. N. Latt. 49° 17' ; W. Long. 126° 0'. Wind still at WNW. 
and fair weather. Saw Breakers point NW. 4 leagues, making 
short hanks. 

22. Weather'd away Breakers point and stood towards Nootka 
Sound. Obser\''d the Spanish Colours flying at the Entrance of 

61 Captain Ingraham's manuscript journal mentions the Spanish officer and, later, while 
complaining of the natives of Neah Bay lurking about the shipping, says: "What their 
motive was I cannot say unless in hopes of some opporttinity to be revenged on Senor 
Fidalgo who it seems kill'd 8 men as a retaliation for the life of the officer before men- 
tioned, this circumstance seem'd to have a very sensible effect on these people for when 
ever anytliing relative to the affair was mentioned it would occasion a tremour and every 
one was ready to say it was none of their tribe &c. If the innocent were punish'd and the 
guilty escaped it was a pity but how was any one to ascertain the guilty person as no one 
wo)U"d come forward to acuse him or them hence Senor Fidalgo to convince them such enor- 
mities would not be passed over with impunity thought proper to make an example of the 
first he met with after the death of his unfortunate Officer and much esteemed friend." 



42 John Boit 

Friendly Cove, but the tide swept us so strong towards some 
breakers on the East shore, and the wind being light oblidg'd us to 
Anchor in 16 fm. rocky bottom. Hoisted our Ensign in a Wiff 
and fired a Gun for assistance which was answered by the Spaniards. 
Soon after see several Boats rowing towards us. Quite calm. 

23. The Boats got alongside. They was sent by the Spanish 
Admirall to our assistance (except one, from an English Store Ship, 
under charge of Mr. Neal, the 1st Officer). This Ship was sent 
out by the British Government, with Stores for Capt. Vancoover, 
who had not yet arriv'd at the Sound. The Spanish boats was under 
the charge of a Pilot, who had order to Get the Ship to the Cove, 
and lend every assistance. 

At anchor in Nootka Sound. 

24. N. Latt. 49*^ 30' ; W. Long. 126° 30'. Light breeze from 
the South'd and East'd. Weigh'd and came to sail, under conduct 
of the Spanish Pilot, who well knew his business, and was per- 
fectly acquainted with the soundings and tides. Upon passing the 
Spanish fort, at the Entrance of the Cove, we saluted with 7 Guns, 
v/hich was retum'd. Towards evening came to, in Friendly Cove 
(Nootka sound). Found riding here the Store Ship, a Spanish 
Sloop of War, and the Brig Venus. The Spaniards treated us 
nobly, and ofifer'd freely every assistance in their power. We lay 
in this place till the 23d August. Shall give the Minutes of our 
transactions during that period. 

25. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 30'. Discharg'd the 
Ship's Cargo and stores, and stored them in a house on shore which 
the Spaniards had lent us for that purpose. Strip'd the Ship to a 
Gutline, and got the riging all on shore to repair. The Spanish 
governor seem'd highly pleas'd with the dispatch that took place ; 
indeed ev'ry man in the Columbia was anxious to get the Ship in 
readiness to pursue her Voyage, well knowing that the time drew 
nigh when we shou'"d again be sailing towards our friends in 
America, and our sweet anticipation of the joys that await us there 
made us use ev'ry effort. This Spanish settlement at Nootka, con- 
tained about 50 Houses, indifferently built (except the Governor's, 
which was rather grand than otherways). There was about 200 
Inhabitants, consisting of Spaniards and Peru Indians, but no 
females. Their fort was no great thing, mounted with 6 twenty 
four and thirty six pounders — the platforms would not bear the 
weight of metal. There was two Botanists resided with the Gov- 
ernour. Capt. Gray took up his lodgings at the governor's request, 
at his house. 



New Log of the Columbia 43 

29. Don. Van Francisco De La Vondego/^ which was the 
name of the Governor, gave a grand entertainment, at his house, at 
which all the Officers of the Fleet partook. Fifty four persons sat 
down to Dinner, and the plates, which was solid silver was shifted 
five times, which made 270 Plates. The Dishes, Knifes and forks, 
and indeed every thing else was of Silver, and always replaced 
with spare ones. There cou'd be no mistake in this as they never 
carried the dirty plates or Dishes from the Hall where we dined, 
(as / thought, on purpose to let us see the quantity of plate used 
by Spaniards in South America.) 

31. This day got all ready to heave down, by the Spanish 
Sloop of War, the Governor having granted us his permission. 

August 1. Haul'd along side the Spanish Ship, fix'd our pur- 
chases to her, and soon had the Columbia keel out. But was 
oblidg'd to right her again, as she made too much water, her upper 
works being quite weak. Capt. Gray determin'd to give over the 
Idea of heaving her out, and accordingly gave orders to prepare to 
lay her ashore on blocks. 

2. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 30'. This day haul'd 
the Ship upon the beach at high water, and placed a long round log 
along her keel fore and aft, endeavouring to trip her over it, but 
the Bottom being so flat, she wou'd turn keel out. Other logs was 
laid, and moor'd with Cannon on the Beach, with an intention of 
laying the Ship's Fore foot on them, which we accordingly did at 
high water, the logs laying as far aft as the fore Chains. This 
method answered our most sanguine expectations. At low water, 
or half ebb, the ship's bows lay'd four feet above the beach. In this 
situation we scuttled her Aft, so as to keep her steady in her berth, 
at high water. In three days, by the assistance of the Spanish and 
English Carpenters, a New Stem and part of the Cutwater was put 
to the Ship. Stopt the Scuttle, grav'd the Ship, and haul'd ofif to 
our Moorings. 

8. The Spaniards view'd us, with astonishment, and the 
Governor observ'd that he believed we cou'd build a ship in a 
month. 

9. The Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim,^^ arriv'd here, on the 
1st from Canton, and sail'd this day on a Cruise. 

62 Mr. Boit here makes a sad mess of the name of Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y 
Quadra, after which he adds an unusually interesting item about the silver dishes at Nootka. 

63 Captain Ingraham devoted his entry of this date to a discussion of the fine dignity 
and courtesy of Captains Vancouver and Bodega y Quadra, representing Great Britain and 
Spain under the treaty of October 27, 1790, known as the Nootka Convention. It may be 
added that a full discussion of "The Nootka Sound Controversy" by William Ray Manning, 
Ph.D., is published in the Annual Report of the American Historical Asuociation for 1904, 
pages 279-478. It is devoted to the diplomacy between the two nations named but throws no 
new light on Captain Gray's discoveries. 



44 John Boit 

10. On the 10th arrived here the ship Buttersworth, from 
London, Wm. Brown Commander; Ship Margaret, James Magee, 
and Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim. 

11. And on the 11th arriv'd the Sloop Prince La Boo, Capt. 
Gordon from London. These vessells were all in the fur trade. 
The Laboo was a tender to the Buttersworth. 

16. The Ship Margaret put to sea, under charge of Mr. Lamb, 
1st Officer Capt. Magee residing with the Spanish governor for 
the benefit of his health. 

22. This Day the Columbia was ready for sea, and in fine 
order. Have painted her complete. 

23. Arriv'd the English brig Three B's, Lieutenant Alder, 
Commander, from London, on a trading Voyage. 

Bound to Charlotte Isles. 

24. Weigh'd and came to sail, bound for Queen Charlotte 
Isles, Barrells sound, those Isles being the appointed rendezvous, 
for to meet the Adventure, Capt. Haswell. It is but doing Justice 
to the Spaniards at Nootka sound to observe that during our tarry 
among them we was treated with the greatest hospitality, and in 
fact they seem'd to exert themselves, and to feel interested in our 
behalf. May such fine fellows Never be in want of the like assist- 
tance shou'd they ever stand in need of it from the hands of any 
American. The Governor wou'd Not allow Capt. Gray for to pay 
one farthing. 

25. N. Latt. 49^ 30' ; W. Long. 126° 30'. Nootka sound is as 
remarkable a place to know from seaward as any I know of. At 
most times latheo peak (a mountain) in the form of a sugar loaf 
can be seen, and there is none other that at all resembles it, on this 
part of the Coast. A long low point, with high Breakers off it, 
makes the SE. part of the Bay. The Western entrance of the sound 
runs down to a low point, with a small round Hill just back of 
Friendly cove. 

28. N. Latt. 51° 45'; W. Long. 130° 30'. This day made the 
SE. part of the group of Charlotte Isles. A thick fog came on, so 
that we cou'd not reach the sound. Employ'd beating off and on, 
waiting for fair weather. 

30. This day the weather clear'd and the Sloop Adventure 
hove in sight standing for Barcl. [Barrells?]*'* sound. This is the 
second time we have met oflF the place of Rendezvous. Saluted each 
other with 7 Guns. Found Capt. Haswell and Crew all well, and 



64 Mr. Ford's conjecture In brackets is correct. 



New Log of the Columbia 45 

had made a successful cruize. We stood into Port Montgommery,®^ 
a small harbour to the North'd of Barrells Sound, which the Adven- 
ture had visited before, and her Captain named it after our famous 
American General who fell before Quebec while gloriously fighting 
in the defence of our liberties. Graved the Sloop in this place, and 
otherways put her in fine order, to attract the eyes of the Spaniards 
at Nootka, as Capt. Gray meant to sell her to them if possible. Cut 
some spare spars at this place, and wooded and watered the Ship 
for her passage to Canton. Many Natives visited us, and brought 
plenty of fish but few furs. Took out the Skins from the Sloop 
and stow'd them away on board the Ship. 

Bound to Nootka Sound. 

September 13. Weigh'd and stood to sea, in company with 
the Adventure, bound to Nootka sound. 

21. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 30'. Abreast the 
Entrance of the Sound. A Spanish Brig in sight to leeward, which 
hove to and fir'd a Gun. We immediately bore off for her. She 
was the Acteva of 14 Guns, with the Spanish Governor of Nootka 
on board, bound to Peru. He told Capt. Gray that he wou'd wait 
10 days at a small Spanish settlement, in Juan De Fuca straits, 
where he was then going, for to leave some orders, previous to his 
leaving the Coast. He appear'd anxious to have the Sloop, and 
Haswell was not backward in displaying her to the best advantage. 
Towards evening we anchor'd in Friendly Cove, having saluted 
the Spanish Governor with 13 Guns when we parted. Found rid- 
ing in the Cove His Majesty's Ships Discovery and Chatham, The 
Dedalus, Store Ship, Capt. [Thomas] New, Ship Margaret, of 
Boston, Capt. Magee, English Brig Fens, Capt. Duffin, English 
Sloop Jackhall, Capt. Steward, and a Spanish Line of Battle Ship 
of 74 Guns. Spanish Colours still flying at the fort, the Governor 
having refused to give up the Sound to Capt. Vancoover who was 
authoriz'd by his Government for to take possession of it. How- 
ever the Spaniards told Vancoover that he might have that par- 
ticular place where Capt. [John] Mears made his small settlement, 
and built a Sloop, which was very inconsiderable. Capt. Vancoover 
insisted upon having the whole or none. However they both agreed 

65 Possibly the Carpenter Bay of the present charts. There is here another error in 
dates. Captain Haswell trives this meeting as early on the morning of September 3 instead 
of the August 30 of the Boit journal. Captain Haswell's first mention of Port Montgomery 
was on May 6, 1792. The name has not persisted. The American sought to be honored 
was Richard Montgomery. On the roois above Cape Diamond, near Quebec is an inscription : 
"Here Major-Q^neral Montgomery fell, December 31, 1775." 



46 John Boit 

to let the business remain (in statu quo), to remain friends, and 
write home to their respective Courts, on the subject of dispute.*" 

Juan de Fuca Straits. 

22. Weigh'd in company with the Sloop, and left Nootka 
bound to Port Ne-ar''" in Juan de Fuca straits. Fair wind and 
pleasant weather. 

23. N. Latt. 49^ 9'; W. Long. 125° 26' O ([ . Close in with 
Clioquot harbour. In the morning saw two Sail in the NW. At 
Aleridian Tatooch's Isle on the SE. entrance of the Straits bore 
E.^/'S. 8 or 9 leagues. 

24. N. Latt. 48° 30'; W. Latt. [Long.] 123° 45'. Spoke the 
Spanish Brig Acteva, with the Governor on board. They was much 
suppriz'd at our being in the Straits as soon as they was. At dark the 
Spanish Brig hove to under her tops'ls. We kept plying all night 
for our Port, and in the Morning got safe to anchor in Co with the 
Sloop Adventure. Found riding here the Spanish Ship Princessa 
of 6^ Guns, and Brig Hope, Capt. Ingrahim. This was a small, 
good harbour, situate about 5 leagues from Cape Flattery, within 
the straits of De Fuca. The Spaniards had erected a Cross upon 
the beach, and had about 10 Houses and several good Gardens. 
Several Natives along side, and a few prime Skins was purchas'd, 
(with plenty of fine Halibut). I went with the Pinnace to the 
Assistance of the Acteva, she having been oblidg'd to anchor near 
Cape Flatter}", in a dangerous situation. When I came on board, 
instead of using every effort to get clear of Danger, they was per- 
forming Mass. However soon got under way and stood for Port 
Ne-ar."^^ 

25. N. Latt. 48° 35'; W. Long. 123° 30'. The Acteva 
anchor'd in company. Saluted the Governor with 13 Guns, which 

66 Mr. Boit either did not hear about it or thought it unworthy of mention, the fact 
that Captain Vancouver had completed tlie discovery lie had hinted at on June 8 and 9. 
(See above, notes 56 and 57.) On Wednesday, September 5, 1792, after returning from a 
trip up Nootka Sound, Captain Vancouver made tliis entrj- in his journal : "In our conver- 
sation whilst on thi.s little excursion, Senor Quadra had very earnestly requested that I 
would name some port or island after us both, to commemorate our meeting and the very 
friendly intercour.se that had taken place and subsisted between us. Conceiving no spot so 
proper for this demonstration as tlie place where we had first met, which was nearly in 
the center of a tract of land that had first been circumnavigated by us, forming the south- 
western sides of the gulf of Georgia, and the southern sides of Johnstone's straits and Queen 
Charlotte's soimd, I named that country the island of Quadra and Vancocvbr ; with which 
compliment he seemed highly pleased." (Voyage of Discovery Round the ^^'or^(l, second 
edition, Vol. II., p. 357.) The Spaniard's name has disappeared from recent charts, but 
Mitchell's School Atlas, published in Philadelphia in 1851, showed the conjoined names on 
the large island. 

67 Neah Bay. 

68 Captain Ingraham recites at some length the fact that he also went out to the 
assistance of the Acteim, accompanied by Mr. Hoskins, supercargo of the Columbia. He 
says he found Captain Bodega y Quadra angry that assistance had not been sent before. He 
says he succeeded in explaining all to the satisfaction of their Spanish friend. 



New Log of the Columbia 47 

was retum'd. Employ'd filling up our Water, and getting ready for 
our passage across the Pacific Ocean. 

26. Spanish Officers from both ships, together with Capt. In- 
graham, dined on board the Columbia. Fired, on their coming, and 
going away, two Foederall salutes. 

27. Saild the Prince ssa for Nootka sound. Ships crew are all 
in prime health. Natives constantly visit us, but they do not like the 
Spaniards. 

28. This day sold the Sloop Adventure to the Spanish Gov- 
ernor, for 72 Prime Sea Otter Skins, worth 55 Dollars each in 
Canton, which is equal to 4960$., which at 50 per Ct. advance home, 
is 7440 Spanish Piasters, a good price.*'" He wanted her as a pres- 
ent to the Viceroy of Mexico. Before delivery we took out all her 
provisions and stores, with a New Cable and Anchor, 

29. Saild this day the Brig Acteva and Sloop Adventure, 
under Spanish Colours, bound to Acapulco. We saluted on their 
departure with 9 Guns which was retum'd. 

30. Weigh'd and saild from Port Near,'^*' bound across the 
Straits for a Cove, call'd by us Poverty.''^ Same evening anchor'd, 
in 7 fathom. Found this harbour much snuger for our business. 
The Indians brought a few Skins and plenty of fish and some train 
oil, which last article we much wanted. 

October 1. Employ'd wooding and watering and getting the 
Ship in order. Cut many spare spars. 

3. Weigh'd for the last time on the NW Coast, and left Pov- 
erty Cove, bound for Canton in China, via Sandwich Islands.'^^ Our 
feelings on this occasion are easier felt than described. Our friends 
at Home and ev'ry endearing Idea rush'd so full upon us, and made 
us so happy, that 't was impossible, for a while, to get the Ship in 

69 Captain Haswell wrote on the same day: "In the morning Capt. Gray concluded 
his bargain with Commander Quadra for the sloop, for which he received 75 sea-otter sliins 
of a superior quality." (Bancroft, Xorthwest Coast, Vol. I., p. 735.) That entry shows a 
difference of three sea-otter skTns in the two records. Mr. Boit has also made a blunder by 
"carrying one" and making it $4960, instead of $3960 as the value received for the sloop. 

70 Captain Ingraham had a very poor opinion of Neah Bay as a harbor. On September 
28, 1792, he wrote: "I cannot imagine what the Spaniards promis'd themselves by forming 
a settlement on this spot where it is 5 points of the compass open to the sea from WNW 
to NBW so that it is almost as bad as being in the centre of the straights and I much 
wonder how the Princessa road out 7 montlis in safety in such a place especially as the 
bottom is very rocky in forming a new settlement I should suppose a good Harbour waa the 
first and most materiale thing to be sought for." Neah has remained one of the most sub- 
stantial Indian villages in the Pacific Northwest. 

71 Captain Ingraham's manuscript chart shows "Poverty Cove" to be the same as Port 
San Juan, on the southwestern shore of Vancouver Island. After the sloop Adventure was 
sold. Captain Haswell and hia crew went on board the Columbia. His journal shows a few 
brief entries after that transfer. He records the departure for "Port Poverty" as on 
September 28, instead of September 30 as recorded by Jlr. Boit. Captain Haswell gives the 
reason for moving as follows: "As it was necessarj' to cut a large quantity of wood, and 
a number of spars to last us to Boston, Capt. Gray concluded to go over to Port Poverty, 
where it would be much more convenient, and much less danger of the natives." (Bancroft, 
Northwest Coast, Vol. I., p. 735 ) 

72 The last entry in Captain Haswell's journal gives the date of departure the same as 
in Mr. Bolt's journal. 



^ John Boit 

readiness for bad weather, and full allowance of Grog being serv'd 
on the occasion, made our worthy Tars join in the general Mirth— 
and so we go. 

N. Latt. 48° 25'; W. Long. 123° 3(y. At noon Cape Flattery 
bore East 7 leagues. Steering SW. Wind NE. Soon lost sight of 
the Mountains of North America. 

9. N. Latt. 44° 51' ; W. Long. 128° 34' ; Amp'd 14° 37' E 
11. N. Latt. 43° 7'; W. Long. 129° 5'; Amp'd 13° 17' E. 
O (T . Pleasant weather. Wind at West. Ship's Crew in health 

16. N. Latt. 34° 7'; W. Long. 138° 6'; Azi. 10° 58' E. 
Pleasant gales and fair weather. 

17. N. Latt. 32° 54'; W. Long. 138° 42'; Azi. 11° 46' E. 
Pleasant gales and fair weather. 

21. N. Latt. 28° 10'; W. Long. 142° 24'; Azi. 10° 0' E. 
Crew all in health, and wind and weather propitious. Took NE 
Trade winds this day. 

26. N. Latt. 20° 15'; W.Long. 150° 39'; Azi. 6° 7'; Amp'd 
6° 38' E. Warm and pleasant, with a smooth sea. 

28. N. Latt. 20° 5' ; W. Long. 154° 52' * d. Spoke the Brig 
Fens, Capt. Duffan, bound to Canton. The first lieutenant*" oi 
the Discovery, Capt. Vancoover, was a passenger on board this 
Vessell, bound home, with dispatches for Government. 

* Lieutenant Mndge? — W. C. F. 

•„^- I? ^'i ^"""^'s conjecture is correct. Captain Vancouver ivTote : "Considerine it an 
md^pensable duty, that the Lords of the Admiralty should, from under my o^ hand 
^^itinn?'^"'*^ '"^^^ ""^ "^^""^^ °^ '"y negociation at this port by the saf JstTd Zsi 
th^ Fen?r«nH «7''t''^' I passage was procured for my first lieutenant Mr. Mudge on board 
u. J^^l^^ ^u •l?*'P*'' ^°™'' *^ *^*'"'«' '•'«'™ ^^ence he is to proceed with all dispatch 
t'L^^ , ^- thereupon promoted Lieutenants Peter Puget and Joseph Baker. (See 

\oyage of DxDcovery Round the World, second edition. Vol. II pp 377-378 ) 



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